Shower Door Leak?

I have responded to a lot of calls to look at leaky showers over the past 13 years. Roughly all of the showers that I have inspected have leaked at the door or metal track that holds the glass. The leak itself is not always noticeable, but the damage it causes over the years is obvious.

The follow is rotted baseboards, water damaged Sheetrock, and mold where the shower meets the floor just surface the glass door. The good news is that when faced with signs of water damage isolated to surface the shower door, Roughly all leaks have been the follow of an primary facility error. The error is in the way the shower trim was sealed with silicon caulk. The mistake is compounded over the years by handymen and Diy'ers adding more caulk to the inside of the shower as a repair or part of home maintenance. Don't worry, it is a common impulse to keep adding caulk to the shower in hope that the leak will ultimately stop. Not only is this facility error common, I have witnessed it in 100% of showers with the same water damage pattern.

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The most important chapter when sealing with caulk is "less is more." As it is very important to thoroughly caulk the surface of the metal shower trim, it is equally important not to caulk over the "weep holes" inside the shower. These are little drain holes in the lowest of the metal track inside the shower and on pre-made acrylic shower pans. These holes allow the condensation and water inside the metal track to drain back inside the shower instead of being trapped and ultimately looking an alternative leave route. For the theory to drain properly, I also suggest not caulking inside the track at the corners. The faster the water can flow down the track and out to the shower drain, the quicker the shower will dry. This reduces the occasion of mildew and mold increase tremendously.

The type of caulk you use is also key to a long chronic sealed shower trim. 100% silicone caulk is the only caulk that has stood the test of time for me. It doesn't shrink or crack unless it is in direct sunlight, and it stays flexible for a long time. Acrylic caulk hardens, cracks, and is less prosperous in retention out mold and mildew. As a rule of thumb, it's easier to match clear silicone to the metal trim and plumbing fixtures while white or grout color matched silicone is easier to match the corners of walls, shelves, and benches inside the shower.

Last but not least, check to see if all of the rubber seals are still in place and in good shape around the glass, the sides of the shower door, and the sweep at the lowest of the shower door. These are there to help shed water down the inside of the shower and help keep splashing straight through any gaps in the door to a minimum. These items can be inexpensively supplanted at a glass furnish shop.

Shower Door Leak?

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Replacing Sliding Doors With French Doors

Typically prominent out to the patio or backyard, sliding doors or French doors allow fullness of sunlight in while giving you a inexpressive view and access to the outdoors. Sliding glass doors are naturally designed and achieve the basic functions but may be seen as outdated and commonplace. A pair of French doors opens fully to the outdoors and adds charm and elegance to a space. Succeed these steps to replace your sliding doors with French doors.

1. Take measurements of your old doors and buy your French doors.
It is a good idea to buy your French doors before you begin any work to remove your existing doors, since you may have to wait a concentrate of weeks or longer for the new doors to arrive. In order to buy the right size of replacement doors, you will need to measure the height and width of your existing sliding doors. French doors come in accepted sizes, so if you take your measurements to any reputable lumber yard or home correction store, they should be able to order the correct size of a set of pre-hung French doors. If in doubt, you may remove the trim from the surface to obtain the measurements for the rough door opening, without removing the old door. It is best to pick a door with dimensions a quarter inch smaller on each side than the rough opening.

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2. Separate your old sliding doors.
Once your new doors have arrived, you can get to work replacing your doors. Pry the existing trim and moldings loose with a hammer. The track and the rest of the sliding door unit will be exposed. Unscrew the nails on the side jambs, the top header, and the lowest track that obtain the door panels in place. Pull the fixed panel away from the track and remove, followed by the sliding panel. You may need to pry the fixed door panel out of the side jamb if it is stuck.

3. remove the rest of the sliding door unit.
Unscrew all the nails retention the jambs, header, and track in place. The unit should admittedly come loose. The side jambs tend to wish more work to remove, and you need to be particular not to damage the wall surrounding the door frame. Beginning at the bottom, pry the metal jamb away from the side wall.

4. Place the French doors in the opportunity and compare the fit.
Do not remove any clips or straps that hold your new doors aligned and closed. Town the door unit in the opportunity and position it into place. Using a level, compare if the door unit is even and plumb. You may need to get a friend to help you hold the door in place while you use shims to adjust the fit of the door. Start with the top and lowest corners and then behind the hinges, development sure to compare for levelness after each shim.

5. obtain the new doors into place.
Attach the frame of the unit to the opportunity using three nails for each jamb. Nail any shims into the jambs or the frame. obtain the doors on the hinges, remove the clips or straps attached to the doors, and test out their swinging motion. Fill the cracks between the jamb and frame with insulation. Setup the interior casing and surface molding, and apply caulk along the surface to seal out drafts. Unblemished your door replacement by following the manufacturer's finishing instructions.

Replacing Sliding Doors With French Doors

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How to Build Cabinet Doors

So you've decided the kitchen needs a facelift but you don't want to get a second mortgage to do it. Putting up new cabinet doors can revitalize any dreary kitchen. It's a large scheme that requires a bit of woodworking know how but it's beyond doubt a great way to get exactly the right cabinets for you. So read on for a guide on how to build cabinet doors.

The first thing you'll need to do is cut a rough door out of the same material your cabinets are made of.

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Cut the sides of the door slightly longer than the cabinet frame

Reposition the wood and cut the top and bottom slightly larger than the frame opening.

Next item is to cut out the edges of the door.

Measure the height and width of the door frame. Trace this estimation onto the backside of the cabinet door.

Adjust your table saw so that the blade is almost a third the depth of the wood.

Trim around the edges of the door.

Next you'll need a router to bevel the edges of the door.

Run the router around the sides, top and bottom of the cabinet door.

Wipe off and dust and take the door over to the cabinets and fit check it.

Trim off any areas that don't fit inside the frame

If all things fits snug go ahead and set the door aside and start on the next door.

Repeat this process for all of the singular doors.

Making a set of duplicate doors is a puny bit different.

You'll use the same steps for creating the template except this time cut 1 sheet of wood that will fit both doors.

Once you've made this cut portion the center of the wood and cut it lengthwise splitting it into the two doors.

The think for using a singular sheet of wood is to withhold the wood grain pattern, the doors will match.

Don't rout or cut the inner length of the 2 doors since you'll want them to fit flush inside the cabinet.

At this point you'll need an assistant to hold the duplicate doors in place to check the fit.

Since you didn't cut the middle line on the doors you can trim them down flush on these sides.

Now that you have all of the doors built it's time to sand all things down, smooth any edges and stain.

For sanding it's a good idea to work outside to limit the estimate of fine saw dust that can settle on everything.

After you've done sanding you'll need to stain.

Since this is a large scheme it's a good idea to go ahead and mix up many cans of stain into a larger bucket. This will assure a uniform color across all the doors.

Apply a protective varnish to the doors after the stain has dried.

That's all there is to the actual door build. Figuring out how to build cabinet doors can be pretty involved. As long as you have the time and permissible tools though it's a rewarding way to save a lot of money in a kitchen remodel.

How to Build Cabinet Doors

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Replacing Your Sliding Glass Door Rollers

If the sliding glass doors in your home are more than 10 years old, you might notice that they are becoming harder to slide open. This problem is even more tasteless on aluminum frame dual pane doors. The presuppose is because the doors are heavier due to the dual pane glass, but many of the aluminum units did not use stainless steel rollers. So, in many cases, the rollers get rusty from moisture and they start to bind.

In order to replace the rollers, you have to remove the sliding panel from the opening. In most instances, the fixed panel must be removed in order for the sliding panel to come out. There is a simple way to decree either or not your fixed panel has to come out as well. If the slider is on the inside track and the fixed panel is on the covering track, you have to remove both panels, because the slider will only come out from the outside. There is a lip on the lowest of the track inside your house. That lip keeps water from advent in. Unfortunately, that lip is also too high to lift the sliding panel up and over. So, you have to remove the fixed panel first, then lift and swing out the slider from outside. If you are one of the few habitancy who have a slider on the covering track, then you can lift your slider out without removing the fixed panel.

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But, let's assume you need to remove the fixed panel first. Here is what you do: remove your screen door if you have one. The screen door will have two rollers on the bottom. Lift one end of the door frame with one hand while using a flat screwdriver to lift the roller off the track. Do that on both sides, then take out the screen door and set it aside. Now, look for a metal piece on the lowest track that runs from the lowest projection of the fixed panel all the way across to the lowest of the side jamb that has the door lock hardware. If your door is in fact old that piece might be missing. If you have one, you can pry it up from the track. It is snapped in place even though it looks like it is a part of the track. Once you have that piece removed, you want to look inside the house where the fixed panel is against the wall jam. Look for screws retention the frame to the jam. They normally have one near the top and lowest corners, and one near the center. remove these screws and put them where you won't lose them. Now, you should be able to pull the fixed panel out of the side jam. There is a very good chance that it will be stuck. If it is, grab the center rail near the lowest and lift up as hard as you can. If you feel the panel go up, pull it back down. Do this a incorporate of times, then try to pull it out of the side jam again. This normally loosens it adequate to pull it out. If it still won't come out, you will have to put a thin screwdriver between the fixed panel frame and the side jam and pry while a helper pulls the panel away from the jam. Once you get it free of the side jam, grab the fixed panel side rail and have a helper grab the other rail. Lift the panel up into the top track and swing the lowest out of the lowest track. remove the panel from the top track and set it aside with the screen door.

Now, you can try lifting the slider up and out, just like you did with the fixed panel. If the slider won't clear the lowest track, you need to do a incorporate of things. First, look to see if it's the old rollers protruding from the lowest that is preventing the door from advent out, or if the actual lowest of the door frame is hitting the track. In roughly all cases, it will be the old rollers. But, if the chance is 8' wide, sometimes the wood header that runs across the chance has sagged just adequate to make it tight in the center of the opening. If it's the rollers, you need to adjust them all the way up into the door. Look for a hole on the lowest side where you can put a phillips screwdriver and find the adjustment screw. Then turn that screw counterclockwise as far as you can. Do that to both sides, then try lifting out the door. If you are still getting stuck, have your helper lift one side and pull outward while you try to pry the frame and roller over the track. If you get one side out, have your helper hold that side with his or her foot to forestall it from going back in while he or she lifts the other side for you to pry free.

Once you get the slider out, roughly all rollers are held in place by the same screw that holds the frame corners together. So, you need to set the panel on one side, remove the screw in the corner, flip the panel over, remove the screw on the other lowest corner. Now, you can take a rubber mallet or the wood handle of a hammer, and tap the lowest frame off the glass. This will give you way to your rollers. Take a close look at how they are inserted into the door frame. In fact, it's a good idea to only remove one roller to bring with you to match for the new ones. Then, when you get back home, you can use the roller that is still in place as a guide to installing the new ones.

Places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware carry about 80-90% of the rollers out there. So, you should be able to find them. However, let's say this just isn't your lucky day, and you can't find your rollers anywhere. You are going to have to have them ordered. Bring the roller to your local glass shop. If you're lucky, they will have them in stock. If not, they can order the rollers, but you won't get them for about a week. Don't panic. Just go home and tap the lowest frame back on the door panel, but leave the projection screws out. You can even leave the roller out that you removed. Lift the door back in place, setup the fixed panel but don't snap the lowest piece back in, and don't setup the inside screws. Then, from inside the house, lift the slider and pull it closed. You don't want to drag it if you left the roller out. It will scrape the lowest track. Just lift it adequate to take the pressure off, and close and lock it.

When Your new rollers come in, take all back out and setup the new rollers. Adjust the new rollers all the way up before putting the door back in. That way, the new rollers won't interfere with you lifting it back in place. Adjust the new rollers down until the door slides good and locks. You want to be sure there is an equal gap at the top and lowest when the door is about an inch from windup into the side jam. You can adjust the rollers to make this size even. If you can get the job done by a professional for or including parts, it might be worth hiring someone to do it. But, in high habitancy areas such as Los Angeles, it's tasteless to pay 0 in labor only. Then they mark up the cost of the rollers, and you could wind up spending 0 for a job that you can do yourself for about . Next week i'm going to tell you how to repair your broken or defective window glass.

Replacing Your Sliding Glass Door Rollers

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Buying a bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - 3 Things You Must Know

The height of contemporary kitchen fashion is both elegant and functional with a bottom freezer french door refrigerator. These favorite units are energy sufficient and make it easy to entrance all of the parts of the fridge that you use the most. Depending on your kitchen decor, you can find many choices in paneling from the proper black and white to stainless steel and even oak.

Shopping for a new refrigerator can be daunting. As a large purchase that you will have for many years, you want to make sure that you get the best value for your investment. A bottom freezer french door refrigerator can run everywhere from 00 to 00 and some are even higher for designer models. Before you head to the store or buy online, there are a few things that you should consider...

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Tip #1 - assess Online First

Before you go finding locally, you can check out online reviews and consumer ratings of these units to narrow down the brands and models that you are most curious in. You can also price assess more efficiently online and jot down the bottom prices you find for later comparison with any offer you receive. If you cant find the bottom price in your area, it may make more sense to have it shipped if there is a cost savings to be taken.

Tip #2 - Stick With Brand Names

Of all of the appliances you have in the home, your refrigerator is the one that is startling to last the longest. You want to make sure that the brand you select will be in it for the long run and that there will be parts ready for time to come repairs. Don't cut corners with a cheaper model from an unknown brand. Stick with ones you trust like Kenmore, Ge, Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid and others.

Tip #3 - quantum First

Bottom freezer refrigerators are typically sized in non-standard dimensions and may increase past the counter top. It is imperative that you take the time to quantum the area you are finding to place it in to ensure that the model that you are inspecting will fit. Get the height width and depth of your current space for comparison.

Buying a bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - 3 Things You Must Know

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