Guide to Installing a New Door

Replacing doors in your home can thoroughly convert the look and feel of a room, or make the outside of your house much more attractive. A new door also often has a great seal which will preclude the heat escaping, and hopefully save you money on heating bills.

There are three main types of door:

Door Bottom

- Entry Doors

- Interior doors

- Combination Storm/Screen Doors

In a second we're going to look at replacing an entry (external) door. To replace an interior door many of the steps are the same, just slightly simplified. The locks for example whether won't be used, or will be much simpler. Replacing a composition storm/screen door is basically the same as an entry door, or it can be more complicated. You need to check with your maker for any instructions.

Start by removing the old door

In order to do this you need to open the door and use a wedge to take the weight of the door (at the opposite side of the door jamb). When the door has been removed you should then keep it safe so that you can use it as a pattern to cut the new door.

When removing the door, there are two main options.

Many doors are hung using loose-pin hinges, these are where half of the pin attaches to the door and the other half attaches to the door frame. Both of the halves are joined together by using a pin. You can tap the pin out in order to take off the door.

In older homes the pin may of come to be stuck in, or a dissimilar type of hinge has been used. In this situation you could think unscrewing the hinges instead and then take off the door.

Remove hinge leaves.

You then need to take off the hinges from the door and the frame. You can rule whether you want to reuse the same hinges or use new ones. If you rule to use the same hinges then you can clean them off using sandpaper.

Then install the new hinges to the doorframe. Make sure that you use long sufficient screws to get a secure fixing.

Cut the new door.

You should use the traditional door as a guide when cutting your new door where possible. If the door has warped then you should think about whether or not this is a good idea.

Use a fine toothed saw to trim the bottom of the door. You could also think using a block plane to trim the bottom of a door. The sides can be trimmed using a jack plane.

Prepare new door for hinges.

The first thing you need to do is create the mortises which allow the hinges to fit flush with the outside of the door. You could also use the old door for the pattern to mark the locations of the hinge mortises.

If your door is taller than six feet then you may need to think using three hinges in order to distribute the weight evenly enough. In this case the third hinge should be fitted in the middle of the other two.

Use wood sealant to coat the raw edges of the door and use wood screws to fix the hinges to the door.

Hanging the new door

Fit your door into the frame and insert the top and bottom pins. If it fits ok then close the door and mark the location of the middle hinge.

If you're still seeing for things to do around the house then you may want to think installing a new lockset. I would leave that until another day if I was you! Go and enjoy yourself for now!

Guide to Installing a New Door

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How To Replace The Rollers On Your Patio Door

Have you noticed your patio door is getting harder and harder to open? Maybe it's time to convert the rollers on the door. They commonly last from ten to fifteen years but they do wear out and its a job that a do-it-yourselfer can perform with a tiny advice and some strong arms to get the door out!

Sliding patio doors are ordinarily aluminum but there are many wooden and vinyl models on the market. All of them use ball bearing rollers to slide indeed back and forth. The aluminum and some vinyl doors have a door bottom that is held in place by 2 screws on either side of the door near the bottom. Under the screw is ordinarily an open hole in which there is an adjusting screw to raise the roller up and down. The wooden doors often have pairs of rollers due to their extra weight. The adjusting screws are accesible straight through plastic caps exterior holes in the front of the door bottom.

Door Bottom

I mention the adjusting screws because you need to check them before choosing to pull the door out and replace the rollers. Slide a big flat blade screwdriver underneath the door on one side and lift slightly to take off the weight from the roller. Use an additional one screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw. See if that makes the door slide better.

Sometimes thats all thats principal but if the adjusting screws wont turn or are totally missing, you will have to lift the door out of its track and take off the large screws keeping the door bottom on and pull the door bottom off. Get help to lift the door out. Two habitancy are needed to safely handle even the smaller patio doors. The door bottom may not pull off indeed especially if the door is old. Check for any metal tabs that may be keeping it on and gently work the bottom off.

Some old aluminum and vinyl patio doors have rollers that use one screw both to mount the roller and to adjust it. These types of rollers can often be changed without removing the bottom of the door. Look considered at the bottom of the door in case there is room to pull the roller assembly out.

Wooden patio door rollers are somewhat easier to change, although the door itself is much heavier. The rollers are often screwed in to the wood door bottom. take off the screws, and out come the roller.

Some Vinyl patio doors are glued together. They were never intended to come apart. You may not be able to take off the rollers if you see no descriptive screws keeping the frame together. Also vinyl doors are often fragile with age and crack indeed as you try to pry off the door bottom. Take extra care if you have a vinyl patio door.

Once you have the bottom off the patio door it should be easy to see how the rollers are held in. Usually, removing one screw or bending a metal tab is all thats necessary. take off the rollers and take them with you to your local glass shop to get the proper replacements.

To reassemble all things start by adjusting the new rollers so they are up as high as they can go. You dont want them getting in the way when you reinstall the door on its track. Make sure you cover the roller retaining screws with cork or rubber if they come near the bare glass in the door bottom. If the metal screws touch the glass, it will crack.

Replace the door bottom, reinstall the screws that obtain it and lift the door back in to place. Succeed the instructions gave earlier for adjusting the rollers. You should now be able to see the door move up and down when you turn the adjusting screws. You will also be able to align the door with the frame using the screws. Your patio door lock may need to be adjusted to compensate for the new door height.

Try the door and you should be amazed at how easy it is to close. It should only wish a incorporate of pounds of force to open and close. No more fighting with a heavy door and you did it all yourself!

How To Replace The Rollers On Your Patio Door

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How to Fix a Warped Door

A warp in a door does not produce overnight - it happens gradually, so the sooner you notice, the easier it is to correct. The first real sign may be the door not closing properly, or the lock failing to work.

Doors made from badly seasoned timber are particularly prone to warping, though once you have corrected the warp it is unlikely to return. However, in some instances the warping is caused by outside factors - such as a radiator sited too close to the door, or bad ventilation. If you conjecture that this is the case, take steps to deal with the external problems or the warp may recur.

Door Bottom

If the warp is not too severe, there are several ways of forcing the door against the twist. Some of these, however, wish the door to be kept shut and in many cases this is not convenient.

If you can keep the door shut, wedging it shut against the warp for a few days may well prove to be effective.

To do this, look along the door to check the extent of the warp. Then, with the door just touching the doorstop, quantum the gap in the middle of the door and stop at the widest point and cut a wooden block slightly larger than this gap. Fit the block at the point where the door and stop shut, so that it touches the stop at top and bottom. If leaving the door shut isn't possible, you can either try altering the position of the hinge on the door frame to take up the twist (see diagram), or else alter the doorstop. How you do this depends on either you have a stop which is a cut off piece of wood nailed on (planted) or one cut out of the wood of the door frame itself (rebated). If you have a planted stop, close the door and cut a block of wood slightly larger than the widest gap. Run the block down the edge of the door marking the stop with a pencil. Prise the stop off. Loosen with an old chisel then pull away from the frame with your hands. Plane the stop then refit it flush with the door.

A rebated stop forms part of the door frame and can't be removed. Instead you have to add a shaped piece to the stop to fill the gap.

To do this, quantum the length of the gap in the middle of the door and stop. Then quantum the width at the widest point.

Cut a wedge to these dimensions (see diagram) and nail it to the stop at the thorough point. Once the wedge is in position, trim it again until you get a exquisite fit.

The remedies above only work if the door has warped at the top or lowest corner. If it has warped in the centre you will have to cut a curved wedge tapered at both ends.

Another way to deal with this problem, if you can take off the door, is to try laying it flat, supported on two chairs, bowed side up. Place some heavy weights on top and leave it for a few days.

How to Fix a Warped Door

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Easy facility - Pre-Hung Doors 101

Are you not all that capable with whatever other than a hammer and a screwdriver? Well, if you can widen your scope, just a little, and concentrate a level into the mix, then you're well on your way to installing a pre-hung interior door.

Now that we have peaked your interest, here's the fine print. To bring it to life, you'll also need 8d and 16d nails, wooden shims, and some wood filler. Once you have these 6 easy-to-find components, you may embark on an 8-step quest to beautifying your home.

Door Bottom

1. The Rough Opening
o Make sure that the rough occasion is 1/2" taller and wider than the unit itself.

2. Resolve the door swing
o Is it going to be a right-handed door or a left-handed door?

3. Confirm that...
o The threshold is level.
o The hinge side of the rough occasion is plumb.
o The head is quadrilateral to the hinge side of the rough opening.

4. Setup Pre-hung unit
o Slide the pre-hung interior door into the rough opening, bottom first.

5. Nail hinge side of frame
o One 8d nail 6" from the bottom, other 6" from the top, and between the two, vertical center.

6. Repeat step 5 to the lock side of the frame

7. Nail the rest of the frame
o regain the header with shims and nails. Position wooded shims between the occasion and the header.
o Nail the frame into position through the shims using 16d nails.

8. Finalizing
o Confirm that the gap between the door and frame is equal all throughout. If not, adjustments are needed.

Easy facility - Pre-Hung Doors 101

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Adjusting Your Door

Doors swell and start rubbing on the jamb for various reasons. Foundations settle, wood framing members twist, bow and suck up moisture and walls rack out of plumb sometimes due to earthquakes. But the former cause is due to the fact that the top or lowest of the door was not sealed while the painting process. This allows moisture to enter the wood frame from the inside, increasing the door and causing it to rub or even get fully stuck in ultimate circumstances.

Sometimes the fix can be relatively simple. If the latch side of the door is rubbing, try this:

Door Bottom

1. If the top side, latch side of the door is rubbing, take off the top hinge pin. If the lowest side, latch side of the door is rubbing, take off the lowest hinge pin. Only take off one hinge pin at a time.

2. Using a crescent wrench, tighten it colse to each ear of the hinge that is attached to the door. One at a time, bend each ear slightly (about 1/8") in the direction of the lock side of the door. Be specific not to bend the ears too much as this can cause the door to become hinge bound - now rubbing on the hinge side of the jamb. After bending each ear, re-insert the hinge pin and operate the door. You may be surprised at how easy it was to fix the problem.

3. If the hinge side of the door is rubbing, just reverse the direction in which you are bending the hinge ears.

4. Add a microscopic lubricant to the hinges and you are done.

Of course sometimes the door will be rubbing at the top of the jamb. In this case, your only alternative is to plane the top of the door. If you are trying to avoid the use of power tools, you can try a sure form rasp or hand planer. Just plane the door a microscopic at a time and then try it until it no longer rubs. Take your time. You don't want to get in a hurry and plane too much at one time. The door may now close but the fit will look terrible.

After the problem has been resolved, don't forget to seal the top and lowest of the door with a capability paint. Although you will have to use a drop cloth, there are many creative applicators available that will allow you to apply the sealer without having to take off the door.

Adjusting Your Door

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garage Door Rough Openings

One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opportunity for an overhead stable door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.

The rough opportunity for a stable door, naturally put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7'0" x 16'0", then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.

Door Bottom

The foundation ordinarily drops 8" to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the distance of the cripples to get the
right height of the overhead door header. ordinarily the
floor is poured 3" below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7' then 4 and 1/2" is subtracted from
that height. This is the 3" drop and 1 1/2" for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple distance would be 6' 7 1/2".

Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is fulfilled, with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on either with or without weatherstripping.

If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.

(c) Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com

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How to Adjust Your Sliding Door

If you have a sliding glass patio type door, you may need to adjust it periodically. If it is hard to open or close, or the latch doesn't work properly, you can often speedily and truly fix it yourself. Most likely you have a sliding door with wheels on the top and bottom, and a lever type lock mounted in the handle.

If the door is hard to open and close, there are a few things to try to fix it. First of all, if your door has wheels (which they you probably do, you just may not be able to see them), there should be two little round "buttons" face holes on the lowest part of the door. If your carefully take off these covers with a flathead screwdriver, you will see two screws inside the holes they were covering. Using a screwdriver, turn these screws and the wheels will move up or down. Do this in little (1 turn) increments until the door operates smoothly.

Door Bottom

If adjusting the wheels does not work, you may simply have to lubricate the track. If you have a wooden door with a metal track, use Wd40 to lightly lubricate the wheels and track. Open and close the door a few times and it should move more freely. If you have a vinyl door Do Not Use Wd40, it, or any other petroleum product, will destroy the vinyl.. In this case you will want to use a silicone lubricant, which can be purchased at most home correction stores in spray or gel.

If neither of these methods worked, you may need to sense a expert for adjustment or replacement. The door may be old and it has warped, or it may have been installed incorrectly in the first place.

If your door does not latch correctly or securely, try this method. On the inside quantum of the sliding door, you will see the hook part of the latch, and just above or below that will be a small screw. By turning this screw, you can adjust how far in or out the hook goes. Try adjusting this, and peruse the hook and latch to see if it is hitting the back side of the jamb, or is not extending out far enough to hook the latch.

If that adjustment doesn't work, you may have to adjust the position of the catch latch. This is found on the inside of the jamb and looks like a small square "eye" latch. There are screws retention this in place, and by slightly loosening the screws and adjusting the position up or down, you can place the latch to where the hook will join together with it.

If neither of these adjustments fix the problem, sense a expert door installer or the manufacturer.

How to Adjust Your Sliding Door

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You Know Nothing About Door repair Or Door change - You Must Read This!

Have you finally taken a good hard look at your front door? Have you convinced yourself and every person else in your family that replacing that old, rotting entry door will be the best thing to do and add value to your home? Are you finally so frustrated over the door not functioning properly, the draft you feel on a cold day, the constant fading and the lock not working properly? I can understand your frustration with an covering door that is old and worn out. That covering glass door with the foggy glass that is constantly getting on your nerves worsens your frustrations. You are now faced with whether a door repair, refinishing your door or a exchange entry unit. Do you repair, fix, replace or refinish that ole entry door?

We need to take some things into observation before venturing into the replacement, heal or refinishing of your door unit. Ask yourself why the door needs heal or exchange and what may have caused it (other than age) to look so old and worn out? If your front entry door is made of wood, is stained and is fading, be sure to report what the sun exposure the unit has. A stained door with a polyurethane finish, which has faded, may have sun exposure that is in excess of business standards. Only about 15 years ago the polyurethane on covering doors was allot distinct than what is ready today and not too environmentally friendly. Because of the environmental laws in place today the Uv safety in the polyurethane does not do a very good job of standing up the vicious rays of the sun. In general, the poly is not nearly as good as it was about 15- 20 years ago. In addition, if your door happens to have had a red tone color stain, such as a cherry or red mahogany, that red pigment is all the time the first color pulled out by the rays of the sun, changing the tone of the door to something with a browner tone in just a few months. Do not get me wrong; chances are the door still looks good and wonderful, but that red pigment will absolutely get "bleached out" by the Uv rays. More importantly is the polyurethane safety that is no longer doing what it is meant to do, safe the species of wood, but that is not positive to your eyes at first glance. Small cracks create in the poly allowing moisture penetration and the swelling, cracking and splitting of the lumber. Makes no contrast what the lumber is, it could be oak, mahogany, cherry or cedar, a door that is stained that has polyurethane failure will have door/wood failure if not maintained. Constant, possibly 2 or 3 times a year, maintenance is needed on a stained mahogany door with sun exposure or any species of a wood door.

Door Bottom

Even if your door happens to be a painted door that you have painted over and over again, you will still have failure in the form of rotting. Once again sun exposure is relative and most likely the cause. Sure expansion, contraction, rain and snow will destroy the wood over time, but it is the sun that is all the time the root of the problem. A nice paint job will all the time spiff the door up and look new again but that is absolutely a way of putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. The door unit with that type of exposure will continue to deteriorate as water will find a way to penetrate the hairline cracks which by the way are not illustrated to your eye. The sun has created a condition in anyone halt there may be; painted or stained that allows moisture to be consumed by the lumber, sort of like a sponge. This moisture penetration will cause severe rotting, panel failure and split stiles over time and finally you will have a door unit with faultless failure. The need for maintenance still exists for a painted door as there is with a stained door with sun exposure. New fresh topcoats of paint for a painted door and a new topcoat of polyurethane for a stained door are required. Other choice for a stained door is a marine wax. Each turn of seasons, the door unit should be waxed to safe the finish, sort of like waxing a car. It is important to avoid any continued development of those cracks not seen by the eye. When you can see those cracks with a quick glance, you know they have been there for a while and you best move quickly.

Continuing our discussion about sun exposure is important so you as a homeowner have a clear understanding. Sun will originate chaos to anyone that is exposed for a lengthy duration of time. Just think about leaving your dining room table on you back deck in the sun and what it will look like in just a few short weeks. Unless of procedure you are growing tomatoes, grass, flower or corn, the sun is not a good ingredient for a door. Wood exposed for a long duration of time to the sun and the Uv rays will want maintenance, constant maintenance. So how can you decide if your door unit is exposed excessively to sun, and exceeds exposure to business standards? Let us begin with the direction your door is facing. Stand by your door and take observation to where the sun rises and sets. We all know the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so you should be able to decide this without the aid of a compass. If this qoute door is facing south, west or southwest...you have an exposure problem, which will need to be addressed. The sun is at its hottest, strongest most damaging time in the late afternoon. So a southern exposure or a southwest exposure is the most critical. Your door, if facing in whether of those directions will take a beating.

Most all, if not every door manufacturer today want an overhang equal in size from the lowest of your door to the lowest of you overhang, or "X" needs to equal "Y". If "X" is your 7-foot door unit and to the lowest of your overhang is an further 3 feet, then "X" will equal 7 + 3, or 10 feet. Now "Y" will need to be 10 feet as well to be with-in manufacturers warranty standards. Manufacturers do not take this requirement suitable lightly, so be sure you have an precise comprehension of the warranty and precise measurements of "X" and "Y" to safe yourself. Know your warranty and know your exposure, it can save you thousands.

Now a door unit-facing north or east will have a distinct set of rules. While "X" remains as "X" and "Y" remains "Y", the contrast is now "Y" only has to be 1/2 of "X". So in our example above the overhang will only need to be 5 feet, instead of 10 feet that is required for a south/southwest exposure.

Although it may seem a bit confusing and manufacturers are "strict" in the compulsion of the warranty, it absolutely is for your own safety so you can make the suitable decisions when it comes time to your covering door. heal that covering glass door, fix that foggy piece of glass, refinish that fading door or replace that old entry door with confidence knowing what your exposure is and avoiding failure in the future again. Make sure you have the manufacturer's warranty, in writing, in your hand and all parties understand it what is covered and not covered. Most, if not all warranties for an covering door will not cover any labor to replace it and will not cover anyone if you have too much sun exposure. So you decide, repair, replace or refinish that old covering door.

You Know Nothing About Door repair Or Door change - You Must Read This!

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Easy setup - Patio Doors 101

Whether you've decided on Masonite French or Masonite's center-hinged patio doors, the fact is, that remarkable new set of doors will never see its full potential leaning up against a wall in your garage. If you've come this far, then it's time to get serious about mounting your patio doors. Not only will installing them add some extra functionality to your home, your sense of pride and accomplishment will increase dramatically too!

In just a few easy steps you can have your new doors installed and functioning beautifully.

Door Bottom

1. Rule your Rough opportunity and Door Frame size.
o Rough opportunity width is measured from the inside of the stud frame to the opposite stud.
o Rough opportunity height is quantum from the sub-floor to the lowest of the header.

2. Do not go forward until the sub-floor is clean and level.

3. Remove all packaging from your door (including any wood screws in the top of the header).

4. Apply caulk to the flat surfaces of the lowest sill, lowest jambs, and grooves.

5. Fit the unit into the rough opening.
o Do not try this without assistance.

6. Shim and Fasten the unit.
o Shim the lowest of the unit, tightly and as indicated in your door's manual. Shim the top of the unit, as indicated.
o Confirm a 1/8" gap in the middle of the top of the door and the frame header.

7. Insulate and Install.
o Score the shims with a razor and snap them flush with the frame.
o Insulate any gaps in the middle of the frame and rough opportunity with fiberglass blanket insulation.

8. Extra Caulking
o Caulk all covering corners and all colse to the brick siding. Caulk everywhere the covering trim meets brick or siding trim.

9. I said there were 9 steps, right? Well, if there was an additional one step, I'd instruct you to take a step back and admire your handiwork, because you have just installed your new patio doors!

Easy setup - Patio Doors 101

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Installing Vinyl exchange Sliding Glass Doors

Last week I told you how to take off your old sliding glass door in preparing for the installation of the vinyl transfer door. Let's go straight through the installation procedure for both the Retrofit style and transfer style frames.

Let's start with the retrofit frame. Like the retrofit window, the door will have a 2" lip flush with the exterior edge of the frame. The contrast in the middle of the retrofit window frame and the retrofit door frame is the absence of the lip on the lowest of the door due to the sill track. Your door will have the lip on both sides and over the top. The majority of the installation process is the same whether it's a retrofit frame or transfer frame. The first thing you want to do is check the floor for a level condition. If the base is not level, add shims to originate a level base. This step is very important, because if you have a sloping bottom, the whole frame will be thrown out of square. You will have problems locking the door as well as air infiltration trouble. So, put down shims to make the base level. If possible, use one long shim to originate a solid base for the weight of the door. Before setting the door in place, put down a bead of liquid nails from end to end, set the shims on top of the liquid nails, and run a compassionate bead of caulk on the exterior face of the opening, where the retrofit lip is going to taste the exterior surface. Caulk the sides and the top.

Door Bottom

Now set the door in place, being right to lift the door and set the lowest track on top of the shims, rather than dragging the bottom. Obviously, this requires two people, one on each side. You tilt the top away from the occasion as you set the lowest in place. Then, raise the top until the retrofit lip contacts the exterior exterior where you applied the caulk. The imagine I use liquid nails on the lowest rather than caulk is because I don't like to put screws in the bottom, and the liquid nails product is as good as screws when it dries. Have your helper hold the frame in place while you go inside to plumb and regain the door. Put a level on the jamb where the slider will lock. Plumb the jamb and setup shims where you put your screws. You should put one about 6 inches from the top and one 6 inches from the bottom. A good potential door will have long screws shipped with the door that are replacements for the small screws retention the locking hardware to the jamb. Be sure to shim where these screws install. Now, if you leveled the lowest and plumbed the side, your top and opposite side should automatically be square. Put shims on the opposite jamb, and drive in your installation screws. Put 3 to 4 screws in the jamb. Then, run your tape measure from the top right corner to the lowest left corner. Write down that measurement. measure from the opposite corners, and the measurement should be the same if your frame is square. Finally, put one screw in the top town You honestly don't need any more than one. You don't need to use shims since there won't be any load or torque on the top header. Just don't overtighten the screw, otherwise the frame will bow.

At this point you should have the frame installed in the occasion with the fixed panel already glazed in from the factory. Here is where you want to setup the sliding panel. It goes in from inside the house. Set it on the side and spray a compassionate number of lubricant to the steel rollers to help them spin freely. Wipe away excess before putting the panel in. Remember to raise the top into the header as far as it will go, then swing the lowest over the lip and set it down on the track. If the lowest won't get over the lowest lip, you will have to adjust the lowest rollers to bring them up into the frame. You should see a hole on the side rail to insert a screwdriver and turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise to bring the rollers up and out of the way. After you set the rollers on the track, be sure to adjust them back down before sliding the door. Have your helper lift the side up while you turn the adjustment screw clockwise. Do both sides, then slide the door fulfilled, and check for equal daylight from top to bottom. If there is more daylight showing on top or bottom, adjust the rollers to bring the door panel plumb with the jamb. Adjust the lock. Each door should come with lock adjustment instructions. setup the screen door on the outside. Now seal the crack in the middle of the retrofit lip and the exterior surface. Go inside and fill the space in the middle of the frame and wall studs with R-13 insulation. The last step is trimming the inside. We sell vinyl trim pieces that are designed to trim the inside without having to paint, stain, or nail. You can see samples and prices for the trim at theshopping pageon the website.

Now, the transfer frame installation process is the same, except there is no retrofit lip. Therefore, when you put the frame into the opening, you have to plumb the side jambs from two places rather than one. In expanding to plumbing the jamb left to right in the opening, you also have to plumb inside to exterior because you don't have the retrofit lip to keep your frame aligned with the exterior wall. Also, you need to apply trim to the exterior as well as the interior. You can use a basic vinyl flat trim for the outside, and that is available on the shopping page as well. Be sure to caulk the exterior trim where it meets the surrounding surface.You just installed a vinyl sliding glass door. I will be on vacation next week, but the following week's description will deal with the best and safest way to setup transfer windows on the second floor.

Installing Vinyl exchange Sliding Glass Doors

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Prices and Options For Folding Shower Doors

The replacement of shower curtains with folding shower doors will not only add equity to the home, but also improves the appearance and security of the bathroom. For those who use shower curtains, water on the floor colse to the area is common, but when using folding doors, the water can be thoroughly eliminated when expertly installed correctly. Small bathrooms are a feature in many older homes, and there is no room to have sliding doors or even the belief of an enclosed bathing area. With folding shower doors, you are able to apply the space you do have, while keeping a safe environment for children and those prone to falls.

Prices for folding shower doors will vary based on the materials used in the framed or frameless models, as well as the depth of glass or width of glass used. The types of glass used range from smoked and pebble glass to clear glass or frosted. Many can offer personalization such as names or even portraits being etched into the glass prior to installation. The availability of this service will vary based on the area and company. Retailers will generally have facts on what clubs offer these services and general prices as well.

Door Bottom

Framed folding bathroom shower doors are much like the sliding variety, in that they both wish tracks for the top and lowest of the tub or stall. Frameless doors still wish a top and lowest track, but there is no frame colse to the glass panels in the doors. These models offer extra hardware that holds the glass in place, and then sits inside the tracks and becomes a waterproof seal when finished for use. The cost of the frameless doors can be much higher than the framed doors, as this mixture of frameless and folding doors is rare.

Finishes on folding doors comprise brass, brushed nickel, brushed aluminum, wood tone and gold tone. These can all be found at local retailers, along with glass panels for each job. There are folding shower door kits that are sold together, that only offer definite materials. Most of these kits comprise the easy silver stop or brushed aluminum stop and clear or frosted glass models of framed folding shower doors. There are frameless shower door kits available, but they are very hard to find therefore it is easier to find a expert to complete this task for you.

Hinges on folding doors can be found in the same materials and finishes as the rest of the hardware and framing for both models. Since hinges are made into the doors for the folding effect, it is best to match the hinges to the tracks for a more uniform appearance if you are buying the doors piece by piece. For those that feel as though they can complete this job from start to finish, many home improvement retailers do have professionals on staff that are able to answer questions you may have, as well as instructions on the premise process.

Prices and Options For Folding Shower Doors

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