Sliding Or Hinged Door Wardrobes? (3)

What about the reliability of different types of fitted wardrobe doors?

Sliding door wardrobes do tend to have operation issues attached to them both about the mechanisms breaking down and the perception that they are inclined to come off their tracks. This perception is largely due to the allembracing marketing of cheap steel framed sliding doors in the 1980s and '90s as an affordable but fashionable new type of fitted wardrobe. These wardrobes ordinarily had mirror panels in metal frames that clipped together in the corners and the earlier models were generally 'top-hung' in that the rollers were fitted to the top corners and ran on a track suspended from the ceiling. The problems largely arose from the frames coming apart at the corners under the weight of the glass panels, the lightweight roller mechanisms breaking down or the tracks pulling away from the ceiling with the follow that the doors jammed in the lowest tracks. The harassed user, trying to dress for work would tend to force the jammed door along its track and the whole installation started to disintegrate.

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The manufacturers quickly redesigned the sliding door systems to have the rollers at the lowest of the doors and to run in the lowest tracks. This achieved some improvements in the durableness of the doors, which now being in compression rather than suspension were less inclined to come apart but introduced a new question of the doors jumping out of the tracks if they so much as ran over a sock. Also the ball bearing rollers at the lowest of the doors tended to clog with fluff (common sufficient at the lowest of a wardrobe), with the eventual follow that they ceased to revolve and again the door tended to jump or jam.

These steel framed systems are still ready as prefabricated doors in the Diy sheds and can be used to make an reasonable sliding door wardrobe but the reliability issues persist.

Subsequent advances in the construct of sliding wardrobe doors using aluminium, rather than steel, frames bolted rather than clipped together at the corners and with a new generation of sealed rollers with built-in anti-jump devices have largely eliminated the reliability issues and contemporary bespoke fitted furniture with sliding doors are no more likely to suffer from jamming or jumping than a hinged door is likely to come off a wardrobe carcass.

However sliders do have more complex mechanical systems than hinges and the opportunities for failure are therefore greater. Having said that, I recently revisited a development of apartments in Shad Thames, London and was delighted to see that some aluminium framed sliding doors we installed when the block was built roughly 20 years ago were still performing well.

Today we have looked at the comparative reliability of sliding or hinged doors. Next week we think different construct options.

Options Furniture
37 Grace firm Centre, Willow Lane, Mitcham, London Cr4 4Tu
Tel 0845 375 2959

Sliding Or Hinged Door Wardrobes? (3)

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Sliding Glass Door transfer

This narrative is going to be about replacing an old sliding glass door with a contemporary Vinyl frame sliding glass door. If you currently have french doors and you want to replace them with sliding doors, or vise versa, hereafter articles will cover that topic.

The first thing we have to do is portion for the transfer door. You want to portion across the bottom, center, and top of the existing door frame to find the narrowest dimension. Start surface and portion at the point where the old door frame stops and the surface material starts. That material can be stucco, siding, or brick. portion across in the 3 places: bottom, center, and top. narrative the smallest dimension. Then go inside and do the same thing. You want to portion where the frame ends and the drywall, plaster, or sheetrock begins. Take all six measurements, find the narrowest one, and deduct 3/4". That is the width of the new door. Now, when you portion the height, you can do it just on the outside. portion the left, center, and right side from the ground where the bottom track sits, up to the top where the old frame ends and the surface material begins. Take the narrowest dimension and deduct 1/2". That is your height of the new door. Then, decree which side the sliding panel should be on. The fixed panel is designated by the letter "O", and the slider is an "X". In most areas of the country, you call it out by seeing at the door from surface and reading left to right. So, if you were surface seeing at your door, and you want the sliding panel to close to the right wall, you would ask for an "Ox". However, because i have recently discovered that not all parts of the country do it this way, my suggestion is to ask the dealer how they read the chance before placing your order.

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Next, you have to decree whether you want a retrofit frame or a transfer frame. If the old frame is flush with the surface material, such as in the case of stucco, then you want to get the retrofit frame, which comes with the surface fin. That will eliminate the need to trim the outside. If you have brick or siding surrounding the opening, then you need to get a transfer frame and trim the surface yourself. You can use wood, vinyl, or other composite materials ready in most major hardware store chains. You also need to portion the depth of the old frame. The majority of vinyl transfer doors have a frame depth of 4 3/4". Most door openings, when framed, have a depth of 5 1/2" to the innermost surface of the wall, whether it's drywall, plaster, or anything else. Therefore, when you install the new door, you will need to add some sort of trim stock to build the inside of the door frame so it is flush with the wall surface. We sell vinyl extrusions specifically for this purpose. It's a two piece principles that allows you to bring the frame flush with the wall, then apply the molding to the wall and door frame to terminate it. Pictures and descriptions of the products are ready by going to http://www.how-to-install-windows.com and clicking on "Product Catalog".

You want to be sure and order all of the materials you will need to do the job at the same time that you order the transfer door. That way, when the new door comes in 2 to 4 weeks later, you will have everything ready to do the job. In expanding to any trim needed, you are also going to need caulk, a roll of R-13 Insulation, liquid nails for the track, 4" deck screws, shims, dust masks, and security glasses. Once the new door arrives, it will be time to take out the old door. That will be our topic in next week's article.

Sliding Glass Door transfer

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Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door

Last week I explained how to quantum your existing sliding glass door so you can order the vinyl exchange door. This week I am going to go over the steps required to take off the old sliding door before installing the new door.

First, you have to take off the sliding panel and the stationary panel. The vast majority of doors out there have the sliding panel on the inside half of the track, and the stationary panel is on the outside. Anyone the case in your single door, the surface panel has to come out first. To take off the fixed panel, you need to take off the sill cap that snaps into the bottom track and runs from the fixed panel to the side jamb where the sliding panel locks. Force a screwdriver into the crease and pry the cap up. Then, look for screws on the inside side jamb holding the fixed panel in place. These screws preclude person from prying up the sill cap and pulling out the fixed panel in order to gain entry into the home. In addition to the side jamb, be sure to check over the top header and bottom track for screws there as well. Once all the screws have been removed, you need to pull the fixed panel away from the side jamb. You can start by simply grabbing the side rail of the fixed panel and pulling as hard as you can. If you're lucky, the panel will pop free. Then you can lift the panel up as far as it will go into the top channel and swing the bottom away from the track, and take off the panel.

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Now, I said "if you're lucky", because in most cases the panel will be stuck in the side jamb, the bottom track, or both. Usually, you're going to have to use a pry bar to loosen the fixed panel before it will slide out of the side jamb. Once the fixed panel is out, removal of the sliding panel is usually easier. Just lift up and swing the bottom away from the track, then take off the panel. Sometimes the bottom rollers will preclude the bottom from swinging out of the track. If that's the case, you will need to find the roller adjustment hole in the bottom corners of the sliding panel. Put a screwdriver into this hole and turn the screw counterclockwise to bring the roller as far up into the bottom of the sliding panel as possible. This should allow the slider to come out.

Now, you want to take off all the screws from the side jambs, top header, and bottom track. Then, take a pry bar and get it under the bottom track about in the center. Pry up until the track is separated from the floor. The next step will depend on whether your old frame is nailed to the house frame, or simply screwed in. If it's screwed in, then the frame should now be loose in the opening, since you removed all of the screws. You just need to take off Anyone inside trim there might be nearby the door frame. This type of frame should come out. If your door is nailed to the house frame, you will have to do a bit more work. Use a hacksaw to cut the track in half, practically in the center. Start with whether half and raise the cut piece up towards the side jamb until the the track piece separates from the side jamb. Do the same thing to the other half.

So, now you have to take off the side jambs. You want to do this without damaging the surface material that surrounds the door frame. Take a heavy chisel and pound it into the crack between the frame and surface material, whether it's stucco, siding, etc. Start at the bottom 6 inches first. What you are trying to do is pull the nail fin away from the nails holding it in place. So, once the chisel is pounded through the metal frame, pry away from the side wall. The heavier and longer the chisel, the more leverage you will have. You will hear the frame "pop" free of the nail. There will be some nails holding each jamb in place, so you want to start at the bottom and work your way to the top corner. Once you get the bottom third loose, many times you can grab the jamb with both hands and pull the rest of the nails free as you go up. When you get to the top corner, work the jamb free. Do both jambs, then do the top. Sometimes the top has no nails, or just one in the center, so it will come down pretty easily. Be sure to wear protection glasses and a dust mask when doing this job, especially when removing the top header.

At this point you are ready to setup the new door. The factory course is slightly different, depending on whether you're installing a retrofit style frame or a exchange frame. We will discuss both procedures next week.

Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door

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Installing Bedroom Sliding Doors - Some Diy Tips

If you want to install a bedroom sliding door, then you should comprehend that it is not impossible for the median person. Manufacture the installation a do-it-yourself project is quite a good idea. However, you also should know that if you botch the job, you will be paying for it. A poorly installed sliding door can cause a variety of problems.

If you do not think that you are up to the challenge, then you might want to get some devotee help. Did you know that the dealer you buy the sliding doors from can surely help you with the installation? Actually, when you go with this option, you can get the installation done in a matter of minutes.

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Why is getting devotee help necessary? Well, installing sliding doors can be complicated in the measuring part. You need to make sure that your door frame is perfectly square and level. This goes the same for the door. Otherwise, you are going to have some problems in the installation process.

With a sliding door, you want to make sure that the structure that will bear the weight of the door, the top frame, will be able to bear the load properly. If the frame is made out of wood, you need to make sure that the wood is properly weatherproofed and will not rot or weaken over time. This is a very foremost factor to reconsider because a weak door frame could lead to more serious damage when the sliding door can no longer be supported by the frame.

The actual process of hanging the door also requires perfection. You need the door to be 100 percent square. This allows for the flat and flawless doing of the sliding door. If you don't think you are up to the challenge, better get a professional.

Measuring is crucial. You need to make sure that the door you are getting is the same size as the frame. You also need to make sure that the door is perfectly square. How do you accomplish this? An easy way for you to do this would be to take the diagonal determination of the door. If the measurements are equal, the door is squared.

If you do not intend to install the door immediately after you buy it, you need to make sure that it is protected. You should store it in a dry, well ventilated area. Store it flat, not standing. You need to protect it from moisture, especially if it is a wood door. Why? Because inevitable types of wood can swell when exposed to moisture and that could mean problems during installation.

When installing the sliding door, you need to make sure that the bottom railing is exactly underneath the door. This can be a hard task to accomplish. Don't rely on your eyesight. What looks exact to you might not look exact to a measuring tape. You need to take strict measurements in order to make sure that the door fits perfectly onto the bottom railing and thus, works perfectly. Installing a sliding door is no joke.

If you truly want to Diy, then the installation of a bedroom sliding door should be done as thought about as possible. It requires that you put in some hard work. If, however, you want convenience at the cost of a few extra dollars, then you should just get devotee and pro help.

Installing Bedroom Sliding Doors - Some Diy Tips

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Sliding Closet Doors Verses Bi Fold Closet Doors

Choosing the right door for your closet will depend on the type of closet you have. In many cases you may find that you do not want a closet door at all. There are lots of closet ideas that will help you choose the right door. In terms of built in closets located in a home or business you have two basic choices. These contain a walk-in or a reach in design. If you have a appropriate walk in closet you have a lot more door options compared to the reach in closet.

Walk in closets by their design want more space and are in normal U shaped giving you more door options. In some cases walk in closet may not even have a door as part of their design. A appropriate interior door may be used as a walk in door. Excellent mirror closet doors are often used to growth the functionality of the closet door.

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Reach in closets are probably the most tasteless used warehouse design in home construction. More or less obviously the "reach in" design got its name from the fact that one stands surface of the closet and reaches in to insert or take off items without physically entering. In most cases the reach in design is used where space is concern. In most cases they are 3 to 10 feet wide and mean 30 inches in dept. Considered by many builders and architects to be a very effective was to maximize warehouse space.

Selecting the best door depends on the size of the closet. Long closets are best qualified to sliding closet doors as opposed to bi-fold closet doors. Wide sliding door allow you to have entrance to about ½ the length of the closet and give good entrance the ends of the closet. In expanding if you are interested in mirror closet doors the sliding design will facilitate their installation. In expanding large mirror surfaces will give the room a more open appearance.

bi-fold closet doors allow you to have good entrance to the center of your closet. They are in normal lighter and often design to will washboard slat openings that allow air replacement in and out of the warehouse space. One disadvantage of the bi-fold door is that when it is open the hinged portion extends out into the room. This can in some circumstances interfere with the placement of furniture or beds.

Both designs want the installation of top and lowest tracks to hold and guide the doors as they move. The type of lowest track installed is prominent if you are installing carpet within your closet. Some designs have only a center lowest guide track that is relatively short thereby allowing you to use your vacuum cleaner within the warehouse space.
In normal we favor sliding closet doors as opposed to bi-fold closet doors. They allow more entrance to the warehouse area and allow mirrors to be installed on the doors. Bi-fold door execution requires space for the hinged portion of the door to task out in the room when opened.

Sliding Closet Doors Verses Bi Fold Closet Doors

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Adjusting and Fitting New Wheels on a Sliding Aluminum Patio Door

If your patio door is difficult to open and close it may need adjusting or a new set of wheels. Try adjusting the patio door before spending any money on new wheels.

Adjusting the Wheels
The patio wheel adjusting screws are located at whether end of the lowest section of the door. Some patio doors have a blanking plug face the adjustment hole, remove the plug and use a torch to shine into the lowest section of the door to decide where the screw is located and what type of screw it is. There maybe two screws that are visible, one is an adjustment screw and the other is a fixing screw that holds the patio frame together. Use a long screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw in a clockwise direction to raise the patio. Adjust both wheels the same and check if the patio is level by practically closing the door and noting the gap between the door and the frame. Adjust the wheels until the gap is even all the way down. You may need to move the door locking keeper on the frame after adjusting the wheels. If this didn't solve the problem you may need to replace the patio wheels.

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Removing the patio door to lubricate or replace the wheels
To replace the patio wheels the door must be removed from the frame. Adjust the patio wheels down to the lowest level by following the instructions above but this time turn the wheel adjusting screws on both doors anti clockwise. This will give you more room to remove the patio door.

Contact your local Glazing company and see if you can rent or borrow two glass lifting suckers from them, this will make the job a lot easier. If you can't get any Glass Lifting Suckers a orchad spade can be used to lift / lever the patio door off the lowest track. Take care not to damage the door, frame or sill when doing this. You should be able to lift one side at a time and pull the lowest of the patio door toward you. Caution! Patio doors are heavy and I would not advise trying to remove the door on your own.

Removing the patio wheels
Place the door on trestles and study the patio wheels. It may be that they just need cleaning and lubricating. If they are damaged or the bearings have gone, you will have to replace them.

Remove the two screws keeping the lowest section of the frame. There is one screw whether side of the lowest section. Once these have been removed the lowest section can be prized away from the rest of the frame. Be right not to lever against the glass or you could shatter it. When the lowest section is clear from the rest of the frame you will be able to remove the wheels. Some wheels have a screw keeping them in and some are pressed into a keeping bracket. If the retaining screws have rusted you can carefully drill them out, taking care not to make the hole in the lowest section any bigger. Perceive your local Hardware Store, Glazing Shop or search on Google for replacement wheels.

After fitting the new wheels, make sure that they are adjusted fully flat or into the lowest section. This will give you more room when re-fitting the patio door. The wheels can be adjusted to the spoton height after the door is fitted into the frame. Spray the wheels with a silicone lubricating spray. Before re-fitting the door, clear out any debris such as leaves and dirt from the track and spray the track, locking mechanism and top door channel with a silicone lubricating spray. Re-fit the door and adjust the wheels as described above.

Adjusting and Fitting New Wheels on a Sliding Aluminum Patio Door

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How to Adjust Your Sliding Door

If you have a sliding glass patio type door, you may need to adjust it periodically. If it is hard to open or close, or the latch doesn't work properly, you can often speedily and truly fix it yourself. Most likely you have a sliding door with wheels on the top and bottom, and a lever type lock mounted in the handle.

If the door is hard to open and close, there are a few things to try to fix it. First of all, if your door has wheels (which they you probably do, you just may not be able to see them), there should be two little round "buttons" face holes on the lowest part of the door. If your carefully take off these covers with a flathead screwdriver, you will see two screws inside the holes they were covering. Using a screwdriver, turn these screws and the wheels will move up or down. Do this in little (1 turn) increments until the door operates smoothly.

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If adjusting the wheels does not work, you may simply have to lubricate the track. If you have a wooden door with a metal track, use Wd40 to lightly lubricate the wheels and track. Open and close the door a few times and it should move more freely. If you have a vinyl door Do Not Use Wd40, it, or any other petroleum product, will destroy the vinyl.. In this case you will want to use a silicone lubricant, which can be purchased at most home correction stores in spray or gel.

If neither of these methods worked, you may need to sense a expert for adjustment or replacement. The door may be old and it has warped, or it may have been installed incorrectly in the first place.

If your door does not latch correctly or securely, try this method. On the inside quantum of the sliding door, you will see the hook part of the latch, and just above or below that will be a small screw. By turning this screw, you can adjust how far in or out the hook goes. Try adjusting this, and peruse the hook and latch to see if it is hitting the back side of the jamb, or is not extending out far enough to hook the latch.

If that adjustment doesn't work, you may have to adjust the position of the catch latch. This is found on the inside of the jamb and looks like a small square "eye" latch. There are screws retention this in place, and by slightly loosening the screws and adjusting the position up or down, you can place the latch to where the hook will join together with it.

If neither of these adjustments fix the problem, sense a expert door installer or the manufacturer.

How to Adjust Your Sliding Door

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Installing Vinyl exchange Sliding Glass Doors

Last week I told you how to take off your old sliding glass door in preparing for the installation of the vinyl transfer door. Let's go straight through the installation procedure for both the Retrofit style and transfer style frames.

Let's start with the retrofit frame. Like the retrofit window, the door will have a 2" lip flush with the exterior edge of the frame. The contrast in the middle of the retrofit window frame and the retrofit door frame is the absence of the lip on the lowest of the door due to the sill track. Your door will have the lip on both sides and over the top. The majority of the installation process is the same whether it's a retrofit frame or transfer frame. The first thing you want to do is check the floor for a level condition. If the base is not level, add shims to originate a level base. This step is very important, because if you have a sloping bottom, the whole frame will be thrown out of square. You will have problems locking the door as well as air infiltration trouble. So, put down shims to make the base level. If possible, use one long shim to originate a solid base for the weight of the door. Before setting the door in place, put down a bead of liquid nails from end to end, set the shims on top of the liquid nails, and run a compassionate bead of caulk on the exterior face of the opening, where the retrofit lip is going to taste the exterior surface. Caulk the sides and the top.

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Now set the door in place, being right to lift the door and set the lowest track on top of the shims, rather than dragging the bottom. Obviously, this requires two people, one on each side. You tilt the top away from the occasion as you set the lowest in place. Then, raise the top until the retrofit lip contacts the exterior exterior where you applied the caulk. The imagine I use liquid nails on the lowest rather than caulk is because I don't like to put screws in the bottom, and the liquid nails product is as good as screws when it dries. Have your helper hold the frame in place while you go inside to plumb and regain the door. Put a level on the jamb where the slider will lock. Plumb the jamb and setup shims where you put your screws. You should put one about 6 inches from the top and one 6 inches from the bottom. A good potential door will have long screws shipped with the door that are replacements for the small screws retention the locking hardware to the jamb. Be sure to shim where these screws install. Now, if you leveled the lowest and plumbed the side, your top and opposite side should automatically be square. Put shims on the opposite jamb, and drive in your installation screws. Put 3 to 4 screws in the jamb. Then, run your tape measure from the top right corner to the lowest left corner. Write down that measurement. measure from the opposite corners, and the measurement should be the same if your frame is square. Finally, put one screw in the top town You honestly don't need any more than one. You don't need to use shims since there won't be any load or torque on the top header. Just don't overtighten the screw, otherwise the frame will bow.

At this point you should have the frame installed in the occasion with the fixed panel already glazed in from the factory. Here is where you want to setup the sliding panel. It goes in from inside the house. Set it on the side and spray a compassionate number of lubricant to the steel rollers to help them spin freely. Wipe away excess before putting the panel in. Remember to raise the top into the header as far as it will go, then swing the lowest over the lip and set it down on the track. If the lowest won't get over the lowest lip, you will have to adjust the lowest rollers to bring them up into the frame. You should see a hole on the side rail to insert a screwdriver and turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise to bring the rollers up and out of the way. After you set the rollers on the track, be sure to adjust them back down before sliding the door. Have your helper lift the side up while you turn the adjustment screw clockwise. Do both sides, then slide the door fulfilled, and check for equal daylight from top to bottom. If there is more daylight showing on top or bottom, adjust the rollers to bring the door panel plumb with the jamb. Adjust the lock. Each door should come with lock adjustment instructions. setup the screen door on the outside. Now seal the crack in the middle of the retrofit lip and the exterior surface. Go inside and fill the space in the middle of the frame and wall studs with R-13 insulation. The last step is trimming the inside. We sell vinyl trim pieces that are designed to trim the inside without having to paint, stain, or nail. You can see samples and prices for the trim at theshopping pageon the website.

Now, the transfer frame installation process is the same, except there is no retrofit lip. Therefore, when you put the frame into the opening, you have to plumb the side jambs from two places rather than one. In expanding to plumbing the jamb left to right in the opening, you also have to plumb inside to exterior because you don't have the retrofit lip to keep your frame aligned with the exterior wall. Also, you need to apply trim to the exterior as well as the interior. You can use a basic vinyl flat trim for the outside, and that is available on the shopping page as well. Be sure to caulk the exterior trim where it meets the surrounding surface.You just installed a vinyl sliding glass door. I will be on vacation next week, but the following week's description will deal with the best and safest way to setup transfer windows on the second floor.

Installing Vinyl exchange Sliding Glass Doors

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Replacing Sliding Doors With French Doors

Typically prominent out to the patio or backyard, sliding doors or French doors allow fullness of sunlight in while giving you a inexpressive view and access to the outdoors. Sliding glass doors are naturally designed and achieve the basic functions but may be seen as outdated and commonplace. A pair of French doors opens fully to the outdoors and adds charm and elegance to a space. Succeed these steps to replace your sliding doors with French doors.

1. Take measurements of your old doors and buy your French doors.
It is a good idea to buy your French doors before you begin any work to remove your existing doors, since you may have to wait a concentrate of weeks or longer for the new doors to arrive. In order to buy the right size of replacement doors, you will need to measure the height and width of your existing sliding doors. French doors come in accepted sizes, so if you take your measurements to any reputable lumber yard or home correction store, they should be able to order the correct size of a set of pre-hung French doors. If in doubt, you may remove the trim from the surface to obtain the measurements for the rough door opening, without removing the old door. It is best to pick a door with dimensions a quarter inch smaller on each side than the rough opening.

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2. Separate your old sliding doors.
Once your new doors have arrived, you can get to work replacing your doors. Pry the existing trim and moldings loose with a hammer. The track and the rest of the sliding door unit will be exposed. Unscrew the nails on the side jambs, the top header, and the lowest track that obtain the door panels in place. Pull the fixed panel away from the track and remove, followed by the sliding panel. You may need to pry the fixed door panel out of the side jamb if it is stuck.

3. remove the rest of the sliding door unit.
Unscrew all the nails retention the jambs, header, and track in place. The unit should admittedly come loose. The side jambs tend to wish more work to remove, and you need to be particular not to damage the wall surrounding the door frame. Beginning at the bottom, pry the metal jamb away from the side wall.

4. Place the French doors in the opportunity and compare the fit.
Do not remove any clips or straps that hold your new doors aligned and closed. Town the door unit in the opportunity and position it into place. Using a level, compare if the door unit is even and plumb. You may need to get a friend to help you hold the door in place while you use shims to adjust the fit of the door. Start with the top and lowest corners and then behind the hinges, development sure to compare for levelness after each shim.

5. obtain the new doors into place.
Attach the frame of the unit to the opportunity using three nails for each jamb. Nail any shims into the jambs or the frame. obtain the doors on the hinges, remove the clips or straps attached to the doors, and test out their swinging motion. Fill the cracks between the jamb and frame with insulation. Setup the interior casing and surface molding, and apply caulk along the surface to seal out drafts. Unblemished your door replacement by following the manufacturer's finishing instructions.

Replacing Sliding Doors With French Doors

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Replacing Your Sliding Glass Door Rollers

If the sliding glass doors in your home are more than 10 years old, you might notice that they are becoming harder to slide open. This problem is even more tasteless on aluminum frame dual pane doors. The presuppose is because the doors are heavier due to the dual pane glass, but many of the aluminum units did not use stainless steel rollers. So, in many cases, the rollers get rusty from moisture and they start to bind.

In order to replace the rollers, you have to remove the sliding panel from the opening. In most instances, the fixed panel must be removed in order for the sliding panel to come out. There is a simple way to decree either or not your fixed panel has to come out as well. If the slider is on the inside track and the fixed panel is on the covering track, you have to remove both panels, because the slider will only come out from the outside. There is a lip on the lowest of the track inside your house. That lip keeps water from advent in. Unfortunately, that lip is also too high to lift the sliding panel up and over. So, you have to remove the fixed panel first, then lift and swing out the slider from outside. If you are one of the few habitancy who have a slider on the covering track, then you can lift your slider out without removing the fixed panel.

Door Bottom

But, let's assume you need to remove the fixed panel first. Here is what you do: remove your screen door if you have one. The screen door will have two rollers on the bottom. Lift one end of the door frame with one hand while using a flat screwdriver to lift the roller off the track. Do that on both sides, then take out the screen door and set it aside. Now, look for a metal piece on the lowest track that runs from the lowest projection of the fixed panel all the way across to the lowest of the side jamb that has the door lock hardware. If your door is in fact old that piece might be missing. If you have one, you can pry it up from the track. It is snapped in place even though it looks like it is a part of the track. Once you have that piece removed, you want to look inside the house where the fixed panel is against the wall jam. Look for screws retention the frame to the jam. They normally have one near the top and lowest corners, and one near the center. remove these screws and put them where you won't lose them. Now, you should be able to pull the fixed panel out of the side jam. There is a very good chance that it will be stuck. If it is, grab the center rail near the lowest and lift up as hard as you can. If you feel the panel go up, pull it back down. Do this a incorporate of times, then try to pull it out of the side jam again. This normally loosens it adequate to pull it out. If it still won't come out, you will have to put a thin screwdriver between the fixed panel frame and the side jam and pry while a helper pulls the panel away from the jam. Once you get it free of the side jam, grab the fixed panel side rail and have a helper grab the other rail. Lift the panel up into the top track and swing the lowest out of the lowest track. remove the panel from the top track and set it aside with the screen door.

Now, you can try lifting the slider up and out, just like you did with the fixed panel. If the slider won't clear the lowest track, you need to do a incorporate of things. First, look to see if it's the old rollers protruding from the lowest that is preventing the door from advent out, or if the actual lowest of the door frame is hitting the track. In roughly all cases, it will be the old rollers. But, if the chance is 8' wide, sometimes the wood header that runs across the chance has sagged just adequate to make it tight in the center of the opening. If it's the rollers, you need to adjust them all the way up into the door. Look for a hole on the lowest side where you can put a phillips screwdriver and find the adjustment screw. Then turn that screw counterclockwise as far as you can. Do that to both sides, then try lifting out the door. If you are still getting stuck, have your helper lift one side and pull outward while you try to pry the frame and roller over the track. If you get one side out, have your helper hold that side with his or her foot to forestall it from going back in while he or she lifts the other side for you to pry free.

Once you get the slider out, roughly all rollers are held in place by the same screw that holds the frame corners together. So, you need to set the panel on one side, remove the screw in the corner, flip the panel over, remove the screw on the other lowest corner. Now, you can take a rubber mallet or the wood handle of a hammer, and tap the lowest frame off the glass. This will give you way to your rollers. Take a close look at how they are inserted into the door frame. In fact, it's a good idea to only remove one roller to bring with you to match for the new ones. Then, when you get back home, you can use the roller that is still in place as a guide to installing the new ones.

Places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware carry about 80-90% of the rollers out there. So, you should be able to find them. However, let's say this just isn't your lucky day, and you can't find your rollers anywhere. You are going to have to have them ordered. Bring the roller to your local glass shop. If you're lucky, they will have them in stock. If not, they can order the rollers, but you won't get them for about a week. Don't panic. Just go home and tap the lowest frame back on the door panel, but leave the projection screws out. You can even leave the roller out that you removed. Lift the door back in place, setup the fixed panel but don't snap the lowest piece back in, and don't setup the inside screws. Then, from inside the house, lift the slider and pull it closed. You don't want to drag it if you left the roller out. It will scrape the lowest track. Just lift it adequate to take the pressure off, and close and lock it.

When Your new rollers come in, take all back out and setup the new rollers. Adjust the new rollers all the way up before putting the door back in. That way, the new rollers won't interfere with you lifting it back in place. Adjust the new rollers down until the door slides good and locks. You want to be sure there is an equal gap at the top and lowest when the door is about an inch from windup into the side jam. You can adjust the rollers to make this size even. If you can get the job done by a professional for or including parts, it might be worth hiring someone to do it. But, in high habitancy areas such as Los Angeles, it's tasteless to pay 0 in labor only. Then they mark up the cost of the rollers, and you could wind up spending 0 for a job that you can do yourself for about . Next week i'm going to tell you how to repair your broken or defective window glass.

Replacing Your Sliding Glass Door Rollers

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