Last week I told you how to take off your old sliding glass door in preparing for the installation of the vinyl transfer door. Let's go straight through the installation procedure for both the Retrofit style and transfer style frames.
Let's start with the retrofit frame. Like the retrofit window, the door will have a 2" lip flush with the exterior edge of the frame. The contrast in the middle of the retrofit window frame and the retrofit door frame is the absence of the lip on the lowest of the door due to the sill track. Your door will have the lip on both sides and over the top. The majority of the installation process is the same whether it's a retrofit frame or transfer frame. The first thing you want to do is check the floor for a level condition. If the base is not level, add shims to originate a level base. This step is very important, because if you have a sloping bottom, the whole frame will be thrown out of square. You will have problems locking the door as well as air infiltration trouble. So, put down shims to make the base level. If possible, use one long shim to originate a solid base for the weight of the door. Before setting the door in place, put down a bead of liquid nails from end to end, set the shims on top of the liquid nails, and run a compassionate bead of caulk on the exterior face of the opening, where the retrofit lip is going to taste the exterior surface. Caulk the sides and the top.
Door Bottom
Now set the door in place, being right to lift the door and set the lowest track on top of the shims, rather than dragging the bottom. Obviously, this requires two people, one on each side. You tilt the top away from the occasion as you set the lowest in place. Then, raise the top until the retrofit lip contacts the exterior exterior where you applied the caulk. The imagine I use liquid nails on the lowest rather than caulk is because I don't like to put screws in the bottom, and the liquid nails product is as good as screws when it dries. Have your helper hold the frame in place while you go inside to plumb and regain the door. Put a level on the jamb where the slider will lock. Plumb the jamb and setup shims where you put your screws. You should put one about 6 inches from the top and one 6 inches from the bottom. A good potential door will have long screws shipped with the door that are replacements for the small screws retention the locking hardware to the jamb. Be sure to shim where these screws install. Now, if you leveled the lowest and plumbed the side, your top and opposite side should automatically be square. Put shims on the opposite jamb, and drive in your installation screws. Put 3 to 4 screws in the jamb. Then, run your tape measure from the top right corner to the lowest left corner. Write down that measurement. measure from the opposite corners, and the measurement should be the same if your frame is square. Finally, put one screw in the top town You honestly don't need any more than one. You don't need to use shims since there won't be any load or torque on the top header. Just don't overtighten the screw, otherwise the frame will bow.
At this point you should have the frame installed in the occasion with the fixed panel already glazed in from the factory. Here is where you want to setup the sliding panel. It goes in from inside the house. Set it on the side and spray a compassionate number of lubricant to the steel rollers to help them spin freely. Wipe away excess before putting the panel in. Remember to raise the top into the header as far as it will go, then swing the lowest over the lip and set it down on the track. If the lowest won't get over the lowest lip, you will have to adjust the lowest rollers to bring them up into the frame. You should see a hole on the side rail to insert a screwdriver and turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise to bring the rollers up and out of the way. After you set the rollers on the track, be sure to adjust them back down before sliding the door. Have your helper lift the side up while you turn the adjustment screw clockwise. Do both sides, then slide the door fulfilled, and check for equal daylight from top to bottom. If there is more daylight showing on top or bottom, adjust the rollers to bring the door panel plumb with the jamb. Adjust the lock. Each door should come with lock adjustment instructions. setup the screen door on the outside. Now seal the crack in the middle of the retrofit lip and the exterior surface. Go inside and fill the space in the middle of the frame and wall studs with R-13 insulation. The last step is trimming the inside. We sell vinyl trim pieces that are designed to trim the inside without having to paint, stain, or nail. You can see samples and prices for the trim at theshopping pageon the website.
Now, the transfer frame installation process is the same, except there is no retrofit lip. Therefore, when you put the frame into the opening, you have to plumb the side jambs from two places rather than one. In expanding to plumbing the jamb left to right in the opening, you also have to plumb inside to exterior because you don't have the retrofit lip to keep your frame aligned with the exterior wall. Also, you need to apply trim to the exterior as well as the interior. You can use a basic vinyl flat trim for the outside, and that is available on the shopping page as well. Be sure to caulk the exterior trim where it meets the surrounding surface.You just installed a vinyl sliding glass door. I will be on vacation next week, but the following week's description will deal with the best and safest way to setup transfer windows on the second floor.
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