stable Door fix - Springs

Garage doors are substantially heavy and some kind springing systems must used at the top with cables attaching to the bottom section of the door to compensate the weight. When a garage door is opened, these springs advantage in lightening the weight of the door. When windup the door, the springs keep it from remarkable hard on the ground and damaging the door or causing injury.

To release the spring tension, open the door in the fully open and clamp the door into position using a pair of vice grips in the tracks to restrict the door from moving. Once the door is open, you can make spring adjustments to only the prolongation spring type systems.

Door Bottom

Torsion spring systems adjustments are not recommended by the do it yourselfer.

Typically overhead garage door springs have a life prospect of 10,000 cycles, unless you special ordered your door with extended life cycle springs. One cycle is an performance of an up and down. The prolongation and torsion springs are tempered (hardened) steel that comes either in plain cold-rolled, painted, oil soaked, or galvanized. When the garage door is finished position these springs are under very ultimate tension and can be dangerous causing injury.

Overtime, or while the later stages of the life cycles, springs will start to fatigue, and will eventually start stretching and or break, ordinarily releasing its spring load with loud bang. Most homeowners, if you are at home, hear the spring break and ordinarily unable to find where the noise came from until you try to control your garage door the next time.

On the median I see a 10k life cycle spring last nearby 7 to 10 years depending on how often you use your door. Whatever over 10 years is a bonus. For instance, if you median about two cycles per day, opening and windup the door a total of four times as you come and go, then the life expectancy becomes 2500 days, or roughly seven years. If you have children that drive or more adults with vehicles, then you tend to cycle the door even more frequently, which in turn needing a spring exchange even sooner.

Because appropriate lift torsion springs are winding "up" when the door is windup or going down, the fully finished position is the most stressful on the steel spring material and therefore the most likely the time of breakage. This can be an advantage; because failure near the top-of-travel means that you unexpectedly have a large heavy door arrival down and crashing against the floor with the increased weight from the spring breakage. As a rule of thumb, and for protection reasons, you should never be standing or walking under the door when it is in operation, especially if you do so manually instead of with an electric opener. Also self-operating door operators will furnish added protection if and when the spring breaks while the door movement.

When the springs are working perfectly, the door appears pretty near weightless, but this is an illusion that turns into a disaster when the springs suddenly fail.

Caution: If you need to make once a year adjustments to the springs or mend the door, we propose using a trained garage door technician to do your yearly tune-ups.

stable Door fix - Springs

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Use a Draft Blocker to Seal a Door

If you are finding for ways to seal a door, look no additional than a door snake. You will not need to have special skills or to go out and buy a lot of sealants, if you use this well built draft blocker. They are specifically designed to block the flow of air underneath your door.

As studies have shown that doors with an efficient seal can save in any place up to 25% on your heating costs and cooling costs, you should know that when you seal a door you are doing your bit for home energy conservation. Enjoy pleasant temperatures year round, with savings to boot.

Door Bottom

Many homeowners might not comprehend the foremost and immediate need to seal a door. They wrongly assume that the minuscule estimate of air that flows in and out of the gap under a door cant do much to throw off the temperature in a home. But when you count the estimate of doors in your home that lead to the exterior, the problem can create an extremely drafty home.

When taking operation to seal a door, don't just stop at the front and back doors. The door foremost to the garage, the sliding glass door foremost to the deck, the attic door and the basement door should all be protected for exterior drafts. There are door draft stoppers that fit just about any size door and gap opening.

When you seal a door, you stop any airflow in and out of your house through the gap between the lowest of your door and its metal threshold. Its foremost to keep warm air in and cold air out in the winter months, and vice versa in the summer months, to ensure your home remains at the temperature you have set. If it doesn't, you are paying more to run the heat or the air conditioner more frequently.

If you are wondering either you need to take operation to seal a door, just run your hand along the bottom. If it feels colder, or warmer as the case may be, than the air inside, then the exterior air is arrival inside. Just place a draft blocker along the lowest of the door and you will fix the problem.

To seal a door with a door snake or draft stopper, its foremost to buy a commercial grade one that is constructed out of materials that are sturdy and durable. Testing has shown that polypropylene material is the best in terms of toughness. Also look for the interior to be filled with a material that is both flexible and a proven insulator, such as finely ground corn cob.

Using a draft blocker to seal a door is very straightforward. You will not need to worry about facility steps or maintenance, you will not need adhesives or fasteners, and you will see that the items can be well cared for. Just hand wash and dry, and these items will last for ever.

Use a Draft Blocker to Seal a Door

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Front Door installation

Composite door installation should be carried out by a noteworthy fitter to ensure it is done correctly. The installation requires at least two people, as the weight of the front door can make it tricky to handle.

Before removing the old front door, it is vital to check that the new composite door is all accurate and present. First, check the containers to ensure there is no damage that may have been caused while transit. If all seems Ok, begin to unpack the new door, development sure that you don't damage the face of the door if you are using a sharp knife. Part the new door And the doorway to ensure you have the accurate size and check all the fittings sent with the door.

Door Bottom

If all things is gift and correct, you can begin the process of removing the old front door. To begin with, run a knife colse to the exterior of the old door frame, both inside and outside. Next, remove the old front door from its frame.

Saw in the middle of the old door frame then, protecting the brick with a packer, pry the frame away with a crowbar. Determined remove the entire door frame in the same manner.

If your new front door comes with a sill, you need to do some measuring and cutting. The sill provided is often bigger, so that you can create a sill horn if you want. Part the width of the doorway as well as the length in the middle of the exterior brick and the inner plasterwork.

Next, Determined copy these measurements onto the sill and cut away the excess. Squeeze a layer of silicone along the bottom of the doorway and apply the sill, ensuring it is level.

Before installing the new front door, first attach the cope (if it is not attached already), then remove the protection tape from the inside of the door only. Position the new door in the open doorway, using packers in the middle of the frame and bricks to ensure stability. When it is stable, open the door in the frame and sustain using bricks. Then check the frame is level on both sides, adjusting if it is not.

Measure out the location of the screws. These should be as directed by the door provider and in positions where there can be a good fix, i.e. Not in half brick or into mortar. When sure the positions are correct, drill through the frame and into the wall. Using frame fixing screws, screw the frame to the wall, development sure not to over tighten which may damage the frame. Do the same on the opposite side of the frame. Next, chisel off the excess of the frame packers.

Now you can peel off the protection tape from the front of the frame. Using an Lma silicone sealant, seal colse to the exterior of the frame to give a neat finish.

Before end the door, test all the mechanisms to ensure that the cope and all the locks function correctly. Tighten any of the screws that need tightening. If the door does not fit in the frame correctly, adjust the hinges.

Lastly, seal the inside of the door in the middle of the frame and the wall using whether a silicone or acrylic sealant.

Front Door installation

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Shower Door facility Tips

The most foremost step in installing a shower door is to part carefully. Doors need to be accurately measured within 1/16 of an inch so there isn't much wiggle room for mistakes. The most coarse mistake made by homeowners and even contractors in the premise process shows up here in the measuring steps. It is vital to not part before the tile or marble is in place because it will originate erroneous measurements to part too soon.

The next step is to plumb the walls. If the walls are off plumb you will need to shape out where the glass door needs to be cut larger to compensate in order to have a tight fitting and water proof door.

Door Bottom

The next step is to make sure your shower door has sufficient clearance to open correctly. Construction regulations wish that the door swing out to open so before you install make sure that the door can do that without banging into a wall, toilet or sink in the process.

Since there is no acceptable height for doors you will need to part and decided how tall you want the door to be. It should at least clear the showerhead to avoid messy shower overspray and have an aesthetic look.

The next step is the actual premise of the door itself. Depending on the style of door and shower enclosure the actual steps will vary from project to project but the basics will comprise verifying the door will fit the opening, installing hinges and door handles and putting the sweep in place. Shower doors are designed to not fall off their hinges once the hinges are in place for protection reasons so once you get the hinges in place you are safely able to maneuver the door around. Start with the middle hinge so adjustments can more no ifs ands or buts be made on the upper and lower hinges as needed to adjust the fit.

When positioning the door use a wooden shim to give the door 3/8" clearance from the lowest so the sweep can be put in place. Align the door in place and make sure it is level before you mark the location where you will need to drill holes to place the door. If you are drilling through tile or marble use a 1/4" masonry bit and work moderately to avoid damaging the tile or marble. When you start putting in the screws remember to start with the top surface and then the lowest outside. The final step is to install the sweep, which should enlarge 1/2" beyond the door width on both sides.

If you did all correctly you should have a shower door that opens smoothly without getting stuck or banging into fixtures and is waterproof. And that's all there is to it.

Shower Door facility Tips

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When to Buy Bypass Closet Doors?

Many habitancy form their closets and the interior of their bedrooms to reflect their style and preferences. And many of them failed to consider that replacing the closet door with bypass style would greatly alter the broad look of their rooms.

Bypass closet doors are a popular choice for a closet door because they fit perfectly in rooms with minute space. If you have a walk-in or long closets, then you have made the right buying decision. The contemporary form and style of the bypass model fits any room decor, thus you can also install them in other areas of your home such as pantry and laundry. Here are some ready from several online retailers.

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Series 4700 Frameless, Sliding Mirror Door:

This frameless wardrobe model is inspired by the total mirrored wall look, giving you an uninterrupted mirror reflection. You have the choice to add beveled edges to originate an elegant door system. Top tracks come in one-piece or two-piece options. You can upgrade your sliding version to a frameless one without the need to change both the top and lowest tracks. Thus, this frameless door is a great replacement. It's ready in white prefinished steel, bronze, champagne gold and mayan gold.

Series 4750 Aluminum, Frameless Sliding Mirror Door:

This contemporary aluminum sliding door is someone else contribution from Arcadia Industries. Installing this one visually expands the dimensions of your room, production this an thrifty way to make your bedroom as well as other areas in your house such as pantry and laundry to look brighter and bigger. Installing this mirrored door is one of the best redecorating ideas. Some approved features include maintenance-free track and silent lowest rollers. The lowest rollers are adjustable to compensate for variations of the floor. This is easy and quick to install, requires no maintenance after it has been installed and can fit openings of four feet wide and eight feet high.

Wall Slide Doors:

This Sliding Door bypass is ready in 1 and 1/2 inches and 3 inches framework width. The extrusion wall is.050 thick and powder-coated in white and black. You have choices of linen, frosted, mirror, laminated glass or louvered sliding panel. The safety mechanism is a approved feature to make sure that the door is easy and level to operate and will not dislodge from the track.

Sliding Door:

This aluminum-constructed door is an contribution from Foshan Century Star Curtain Wall and Aluminum Windows and Doors Co. This door gives you the choice to choose the glass type or facing material that you want to use. The enterprise prides itself for the craftsmanship of its products retailed at contentious prices. The door under model estimate Cs Ad001 is ready in separate sizes.

Spaceslide's Sliding Wardrobe Doors:

This custom-built door is the exquisite write back to your form needs. Spaceslide constructed the Titan and Galaxy door models from premium-grade materials. The Galaxy door has 24 material choices such as oak effect, mirrors, soft white glass and sandblasted. The Titan door has split-panel form and three-section division. All these models allow you to choose the materials that you want.

When to Buy Bypass Closet Doors?

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Home safety For Doors

Taking the time to ensure the protection of your house and most prized possessions is essential now more than ever. Looking as how most burglars break into houses through their face doors, the main entrances should be the original focus of any home protection plan. There are some things that you can do in order to enhance the power and resistance quality of all of the doors in your household.

The first thing to do is to resolve on the type of door that you want to have. The three main choices are fiberglass, wood, and steel, but glass is also very beloved for patio door. Only select a solid wood door because a hollow may be kicked through very legitimately and is rather difficult to reinforce.

Door Bottom

Steel doors are the best selection protection wise because they are stronger than the other types of doors. They also will not crack, come apart, or warp as the other models tend to do. Any dents can be legitimately repaired with a basic body mend kit.

Once you have decided on the types of doors for you house, take the time to focus on the best lock options ready for each one. If you have a sliding glass patio door, it is best to have one that has keyed locks at the top and bottom. Someone else much cheaper alternative would be to place a wooden rod in the lowest track to forestall it from sliding back and forth. Also, reconsider placing some type of reinforcement in between the glass panels.

Whenever you are ready to work on the rest of the doors, strongly reconsider Looking into either deadbolts, deadlocks, mortise locks, or rimlocks. Deadbolts are widely thought about to be the best selection among all door locks as far as providing maximum protection is concerned. A single-cylinder is the most tasteless variety, and is used primarily with solid steel or wood doors. It opens from the outside, and has an adjustable turn button on the inside.

A double-cylinder deadbolt lock uses a key on both sides, but legitimately occasionally violates some codes so it is advised that you check before installing this type of lock. While it does growth protection in case of a inherent intrusion, there is also the possibility of the owner getting trapped inside a burning home if the key cannot be found.

Also reconsider hiring a expert alarm monitoring service, or installing your own home protection camera system. Burglar alarms, request for retrial detectors, door bars, strike boxes, and window bars are added ways to growth the protection of your house members. Use this advice to gain added peace of mind by constructing a home protection plan that is best excellent for your specific needs.

Home safety For Doors

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Camaro resumption - Part 7 take off the Doors And Deck Lid

Now that the front end, and machine are removed, we can begin to remove other body parts from the car, and in this narrative we'll remove the doors and deck lid from the car, although this is fairly easy and straight forward, for the population who have never done it before this will help.

Make sure that you have a buddy there to help you with the door, unless your one of the lucky one who has that luxury of a door jack, if you don't that doors are not a one man job, we'll begin by chance the door sufficient that a person can hold the back end of it comfortably, now that you have the door supported, you can begin to loosen the hinge bolts at the front of the door, you have an upper, and a lower hinge to loosen.

Door Bottom

Now that you've settled the hinges, you can begin loosen them, by first loosening the lowest bolts on the top hinge, just remove them and put them where you'll know what they are, now you'll be removing the two lowest bolts from the lowest hinge, depending on how you want the door to drop, will tell you what bolts to remove next, I ordinarily remove the two top bolts from the lowest hinge at this time, and the two top bolts from the top hinge last, in the way I can let the door down slowly, and have more operate over it.

Now you'll be repeating the same process on the passenger door of the car, now your doors are removed form the car, and you can begin the body work on them, Ok now we'll remove the deck lid of the car, or if you don't know what the deck lid is, it's the trunk lid of the car, obviously the first step here is to get your key, and open the trunk.

Now that you have the trunk open you'll see two hinges at the back of the trunk lid that are holding the trunk open for you, these are what we'll be removing the bolts from to take off the deck lid of the car, each hinge should have two blots in it, that screw in to speed nuts in the deck lid of the car, first we'll remove the lowest bolt from each side of the trunk hinges, you can do this a lone if you have to, but it's much great to have a friend present to help you remove any body parts.

Ok now that you have removed the two lowest bolts, you can remove the two top ones, once you have done that, the deck lid will slide off of the car, and wa-la, you have now removed your doors, and deck lid of your camaro.

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Adjusting Your stable Door To A Snug Seal

When your carport door is not adjusted to the properly snug lowest seal, you may contact a whole of confident annoyances:

>Your carport is full of leaves and twigs, and you oftentimes find small animals like mice and chipmunks. >Your door hits the carport floor so forcefully that you worry that a window in the door, or even in the carport itself, will shatter >Your carport door will not stay closed, but bounces open again as soon as it reaches the floor

Door Bottom

All of these seemingly distinct problems corollary from an incorrect seal at the lowest of the door. When leaves and animals are able to enter under a accomplished door, the seal is too loose. When it closes forcefully, or bounces open, the seal is too tight.

If the seal is not snug enough, you need to eye the track. The track may be bent, or some object may be lodged in the track, preventing the carport door from conclusion completely. If this is the case, straighten the track, or take off the obstruction. Then test the door. If it seals well, you're done.

If the seal is still too loose, you need to make some adjustment to the limit switch. You will also need to make adjustments to the limit switches if the seal is too tight. You will need a step ladder, a flat head screwdriver, and a helper.

Place the stepladder under the motor console and search the limit switches. You will see two white knobs with slots to fit a flat head screwdriver. Normally the limit switches are located at the back of the motor, although they are located near the light bulb on some models.

Ask your helper to open the door. With the carport door open, adjust the limit switch using your flat head screwdriver to turn the close switch counterclockwise. Make your adjustments in very small increments. You need to allow the door to close only an inch or so more, and you will need patience to make the strict adjustment. A full turn of the limit switch will make a three inch adjustment, and you won't need nearly that much.

Ask your helper to close the carport door and to eye the opening. Continue occasion and conclusion it while adjusting in tiny increments until you are satisfied that you have a snug fit, neither too tight nor too loose.

Always exert greatest caution when you are working with a carport door. It is a heavy piece of equipment that can cause a serious accident if it is not handled with care.

Adjusting Your stable Door To A Snug Seal

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How to Hang Bifold Doors

Although bifold doors come in distinct designs, the formula of facility is the same. It's a good idea to read the instructions that came with the bifold doors before you begin. Ordinarily the doors are 80 inches tall but can be cut down to fit. The height of the door chance should be two inches higher the distance of the doors to allow sufficient clearance for the track and the rest of the hardware.

Start by marking the top of the chance with a pencil and line up the track. Mark and pre drill screw holes. (Use a drill bit that is smaller then the screw itself ).

Door Bottom

Position the pivot brackets (inside the header track ) 3/8 inch away from the end of the opening.

Line up the pivot bracket with the header track. (You can use a plumb bob or lay a carpenters level against the side frame and make a mark at the floor and align the bottom track. I all the time take the measurements of where the top track will line up and replacement that determination to the bottom where the pivot bracket will be installed).

If the floor is covered with carpet, you will need to use a wooden pad underneath the bottom pivot bracket. Cut away the floor covering just sufficient to fit the wooden pad and fasten it down to the floor.

If it's a cement floor, use adhesive especially made for gluing to cement. Let the adhesive set for 24 hours, line up the pivot bracket with the top track and fasten it to the wooden pad.

Once all the brackets are lined up with each other and in place, you can hang the bifold doors by naturally folding the doors in half and fitting the guide pin in the upper track. Next, lift up the door and fit the adjustable pivot into the pivot bracket at the bottom of the door opening.

Repeat the last steps for closets with four panels.

Install the doorknobs at a height where it is most comfortable to reach. Don't install the doorknobs too close to the edges.

If the chance requires four section bifold doors, you will need to install alignment brackets on the back side of the two middle doors. (Approximately 16 inches from the bottom of the doors). These brackets will interlock and keep the doors aligned with each other.

I hope this rough guide will help you understand how to hang bifold doors.

How to Hang Bifold Doors

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Sliding Glass Door transfer

This narrative is going to be about replacing an old sliding glass door with a contemporary Vinyl frame sliding glass door. If you currently have french doors and you want to replace them with sliding doors, or vise versa, hereafter articles will cover that topic.

The first thing we have to do is portion for the transfer door. You want to portion across the bottom, center, and top of the existing door frame to find the narrowest dimension. Start surface and portion at the point where the old door frame stops and the surface material starts. That material can be stucco, siding, or brick. portion across in the 3 places: bottom, center, and top. narrative the smallest dimension. Then go inside and do the same thing. You want to portion where the frame ends and the drywall, plaster, or sheetrock begins. Take all six measurements, find the narrowest one, and deduct 3/4". That is the width of the new door. Now, when you portion the height, you can do it just on the outside. portion the left, center, and right side from the ground where the bottom track sits, up to the top where the old frame ends and the surface material begins. Take the narrowest dimension and deduct 1/2". That is your height of the new door. Then, decree which side the sliding panel should be on. The fixed panel is designated by the letter "O", and the slider is an "X". In most areas of the country, you call it out by seeing at the door from surface and reading left to right. So, if you were surface seeing at your door, and you want the sliding panel to close to the right wall, you would ask for an "Ox". However, because i have recently discovered that not all parts of the country do it this way, my suggestion is to ask the dealer how they read the chance before placing your order.

Door Bottom

Next, you have to decree whether you want a retrofit frame or a transfer frame. If the old frame is flush with the surface material, such as in the case of stucco, then you want to get the retrofit frame, which comes with the surface fin. That will eliminate the need to trim the outside. If you have brick or siding surrounding the opening, then you need to get a transfer frame and trim the surface yourself. You can use wood, vinyl, or other composite materials ready in most major hardware store chains. You also need to portion the depth of the old frame. The majority of vinyl transfer doors have a frame depth of 4 3/4". Most door openings, when framed, have a depth of 5 1/2" to the innermost surface of the wall, whether it's drywall, plaster, or anything else. Therefore, when you install the new door, you will need to add some sort of trim stock to build the inside of the door frame so it is flush with the wall surface. We sell vinyl extrusions specifically for this purpose. It's a two piece principles that allows you to bring the frame flush with the wall, then apply the molding to the wall and door frame to terminate it. Pictures and descriptions of the products are ready by going to http://www.how-to-install-windows.com and clicking on "Product Catalog".

You want to be sure and order all of the materials you will need to do the job at the same time that you order the transfer door. That way, when the new door comes in 2 to 4 weeks later, you will have everything ready to do the job. In expanding to any trim needed, you are also going to need caulk, a roll of R-13 Insulation, liquid nails for the track, 4" deck screws, shims, dust masks, and security glasses. Once the new door arrives, it will be time to take out the old door. That will be our topic in next week's article.

Sliding Glass Door transfer

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Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door

Last week I explained how to quantum your existing sliding glass door so you can order the vinyl exchange door. This week I am going to go over the steps required to take off the old sliding door before installing the new door.

First, you have to take off the sliding panel and the stationary panel. The vast majority of doors out there have the sliding panel on the inside half of the track, and the stationary panel is on the outside. Anyone the case in your single door, the surface panel has to come out first. To take off the fixed panel, you need to take off the sill cap that snaps into the bottom track and runs from the fixed panel to the side jamb where the sliding panel locks. Force a screwdriver into the crease and pry the cap up. Then, look for screws on the inside side jamb holding the fixed panel in place. These screws preclude person from prying up the sill cap and pulling out the fixed panel in order to gain entry into the home. In addition to the side jamb, be sure to check over the top header and bottom track for screws there as well. Once all the screws have been removed, you need to pull the fixed panel away from the side jamb. You can start by simply grabbing the side rail of the fixed panel and pulling as hard as you can. If you're lucky, the panel will pop free. Then you can lift the panel up as far as it will go into the top channel and swing the bottom away from the track, and take off the panel.

Door Bottom

Now, I said "if you're lucky", because in most cases the panel will be stuck in the side jamb, the bottom track, or both. Usually, you're going to have to use a pry bar to loosen the fixed panel before it will slide out of the side jamb. Once the fixed panel is out, removal of the sliding panel is usually easier. Just lift up and swing the bottom away from the track, then take off the panel. Sometimes the bottom rollers will preclude the bottom from swinging out of the track. If that's the case, you will need to find the roller adjustment hole in the bottom corners of the sliding panel. Put a screwdriver into this hole and turn the screw counterclockwise to bring the roller as far up into the bottom of the sliding panel as possible. This should allow the slider to come out.

Now, you want to take off all the screws from the side jambs, top header, and bottom track. Then, take a pry bar and get it under the bottom track about in the center. Pry up until the track is separated from the floor. The next step will depend on whether your old frame is nailed to the house frame, or simply screwed in. If it's screwed in, then the frame should now be loose in the opening, since you removed all of the screws. You just need to take off Anyone inside trim there might be nearby the door frame. This type of frame should come out. If your door is nailed to the house frame, you will have to do a bit more work. Use a hacksaw to cut the track in half, practically in the center. Start with whether half and raise the cut piece up towards the side jamb until the the track piece separates from the side jamb. Do the same thing to the other half.

So, now you have to take off the side jambs. You want to do this without damaging the surface material that surrounds the door frame. Take a heavy chisel and pound it into the crack between the frame and surface material, whether it's stucco, siding, etc. Start at the bottom 6 inches first. What you are trying to do is pull the nail fin away from the nails holding it in place. So, once the chisel is pounded through the metal frame, pry away from the side wall. The heavier and longer the chisel, the more leverage you will have. You will hear the frame "pop" free of the nail. There will be some nails holding each jamb in place, so you want to start at the bottom and work your way to the top corner. Once you get the bottom third loose, many times you can grab the jamb with both hands and pull the rest of the nails free as you go up. When you get to the top corner, work the jamb free. Do both jambs, then do the top. Sometimes the top has no nails, or just one in the center, so it will come down pretty easily. Be sure to wear protection glasses and a dust mask when doing this job, especially when removing the top header.

At this point you are ready to setup the new door. The factory course is slightly different, depending on whether you're installing a retrofit style frame or a exchange frame. We will discuss both procedures next week.

Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door

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