Showing posts with label stable. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stable. Show all posts

Sunday, December 4, 2011

How to setup stable Door Sensors

How many of us have pushed the button that closes the stable door and realized too late that someone's toys were in the way. Before we could move it or turn the door off it shuts down and crunches anything it was that was in the way. Why not avert any troubles and set up stable door sensors.

These sensors are used to keep the door from windup down the whole way if it senses that something or someone is in its way. These doors are rather heavy and it is not unusual for habitancy to attempt to rush their way straight through when it are shutting only to get hurt. In some cases it has been known to kill young kids.

Door Bottom

There are numerous models that you have the potential to buy. You need to make sure that it is compatible with the unit that you own. Know that these sensors are not able to function with by hand stable doors. It is straightforward to put in these onto the bottom of the door so long as you have all the right provisions on hand.

There are two pieces to this unit; the inferred gismo and the receiver. Both of these are connected behind the railings on whether end of the door nearest to the bottom. They need to be located in a spot where there is a hole in the railing. When you have fastened the inferred gismo it will be able to send a beam back to the receiver - which will link the two of them.

These two are likewise connected to wires that run on the wall on both side of the door all the way to the opener. If something cutting off the beam then it will not close. If it starts to close - but then someone runs below it the door protection sensor will be set off and it will reverse its direction.

How to setup stable Door Sensors

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Troubleshooting base Overhead stable Door Problems

can start giving you problem for a collection of separate reasons. As the doors get older they can begin to breakdown, the motors can lose power and the tracks can become bent and damaged. Most of the problems of this type will need a certified overhead garage door repair technician to fix or replace the parts. However there are some of the more base problems that you can solve by yourself.

The most base complaint is that the door will plainly not open at all. If you push the button on the remote and the door is completely unresponsive then there are a few things to check:

Door Bottom

1. Check the remote to make sure that the batteries are fresh
2. Check to make sure that the motor is still securely plugged into the outlet
3. Check the fuse box to make sure that a fuse or breaker was not tripped
4. Check the unit to ensure that the antenna is hanging down like it should be
5. Check the wall switch to see if it will open the door. If it does then you should try to reprogram or replace the remote control.

Another base issue is that the garage door will not close all the way as it should. This can be cause by the door is not able to slide down the track. Check the track for bends or obstructions and then raise and lower the door by hand. If you can raise and lower it manually without any strangeness then the problem lies with the close limit switch. If the close limit switch is:

• Too far from the motor then the door will not open completely
• Too close to the motor then the door will close but the motor will not stop running

In most cases it is best to leave the configuration of the switches to a trained overhead door repair technician. What would only take them a few minutes to do, will take the rest of your afternoon.

There is sometimes one more sensor that can cause problems. Many doors have a sensor near the lowest to preclude the doors from conclusion on cars, pets and toddlers. It senses if something is blocking the door and will preclude the door from closing. So if your door starts to go down and then goes back up before fully closing, you should check to make sure there is not some small obstruction that is tripping the sensor.

Troubleshooting base Overhead stable Door Problems

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Sunday, November 13, 2011

How to Fix stable Door Openers - coarse Problems

It is easy to fix carport door openers if you can pin point the qoute with it. An opener is the expedient that is responsible for opening and conclusion your self-acting doors. A malfunctioning opener may cause irritation, frustration, and may even lead to confident accidents, that's why whenever you surmise that something is wrong with it, you should address the qoute right away.

Below are four common problems with easy answers on how to fix openers:

Door Bottom

The opener does not work:

- Try changing the batteries of your remote; they might not have sufficient power in them.
- Check the frequency of your remote and opener, they must be the same. If not, set your remote to the proper frequency of your opener.

The carport opener operates on its own:

- Check your remote for any button that might be stuck. If there is none, there might be a qoute with the wiring of your door. Have this checked out by a professional.

The door does not close properly or will reverse often:

- Try checking the sensors found on both sides of the frame of your carport door. They must be facing each other and on the same level. Uneven sensors may cause them to not work in sync with each other and cause the often reversing of the door.

The door will not open and/or close completely:

- Make sure that there is nothing in the way of the door that the sensory beams can detect.
- Check the hardware of your carport door and check for any loose or broken parts that need to be changed.

At the onset of a problem, try to fix carport door openers on your own. They just might need straightforward solutions that you don't need a serviceman to do. For more serious problems that need replacing carport door hardware or the carport door opener, it is recommended that you call a suited person to deal with it.

How to Fix stable Door Openers - coarse Problems

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Monday, October 31, 2011

stable Door fix - Springs

Garage doors are substantially heavy and some kind springing systems must used at the top with cables attaching to the bottom section of the door to compensate the weight. When a garage door is opened, these springs advantage in lightening the weight of the door. When windup the door, the springs keep it from remarkable hard on the ground and damaging the door or causing injury.

To release the spring tension, open the door in the fully open and clamp the door into position using a pair of vice grips in the tracks to restrict the door from moving. Once the door is open, you can make spring adjustments to only the prolongation spring type systems.

Door Bottom

Torsion spring systems adjustments are not recommended by the do it yourselfer.

Typically overhead garage door springs have a life prospect of 10,000 cycles, unless you special ordered your door with extended life cycle springs. One cycle is an performance of an up and down. The prolongation and torsion springs are tempered (hardened) steel that comes either in plain cold-rolled, painted, oil soaked, or galvanized. When the garage door is finished position these springs are under very ultimate tension and can be dangerous causing injury.

Overtime, or while the later stages of the life cycles, springs will start to fatigue, and will eventually start stretching and or break, ordinarily releasing its spring load with loud bang. Most homeowners, if you are at home, hear the spring break and ordinarily unable to find where the noise came from until you try to control your garage door the next time.

On the median I see a 10k life cycle spring last nearby 7 to 10 years depending on how often you use your door. Whatever over 10 years is a bonus. For instance, if you median about two cycles per day, opening and windup the door a total of four times as you come and go, then the life expectancy becomes 2500 days, or roughly seven years. If you have children that drive or more adults with vehicles, then you tend to cycle the door even more frequently, which in turn needing a spring exchange even sooner.

Because appropriate lift torsion springs are winding "up" when the door is windup or going down, the fully finished position is the most stressful on the steel spring material and therefore the most likely the time of breakage. This can be an advantage; because failure near the top-of-travel means that you unexpectedly have a large heavy door arrival down and crashing against the floor with the increased weight from the spring breakage. As a rule of thumb, and for protection reasons, you should never be standing or walking under the door when it is in operation, especially if you do so manually instead of with an electric opener. Also self-operating door operators will furnish added protection if and when the spring breaks while the door movement.

When the springs are working perfectly, the door appears pretty near weightless, but this is an illusion that turns into a disaster when the springs suddenly fail.

Caution: If you need to make once a year adjustments to the springs or mend the door, we propose using a trained garage door technician to do your yearly tune-ups.

stable Door fix - Springs

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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Adjusting Your stable Door To A Snug Seal

When your carport door is not adjusted to the properly snug lowest seal, you may contact a whole of confident annoyances:

>Your carport is full of leaves and twigs, and you oftentimes find small animals like mice and chipmunks. >Your door hits the carport floor so forcefully that you worry that a window in the door, or even in the carport itself, will shatter >Your carport door will not stay closed, but bounces open again as soon as it reaches the floor

Door Bottom

All of these seemingly distinct problems corollary from an incorrect seal at the lowest of the door. When leaves and animals are able to enter under a accomplished door, the seal is too loose. When it closes forcefully, or bounces open, the seal is too tight.

If the seal is not snug enough, you need to eye the track. The track may be bent, or some object may be lodged in the track, preventing the carport door from conclusion completely. If this is the case, straighten the track, or take off the obstruction. Then test the door. If it seals well, you're done.

If the seal is still too loose, you need to make some adjustment to the limit switch. You will also need to make adjustments to the limit switches if the seal is too tight. You will need a step ladder, a flat head screwdriver, and a helper.

Place the stepladder under the motor console and search the limit switches. You will see two white knobs with slots to fit a flat head screwdriver. Normally the limit switches are located at the back of the motor, although they are located near the light bulb on some models.

Ask your helper to open the door. With the carport door open, adjust the limit switch using your flat head screwdriver to turn the close switch counterclockwise. Make your adjustments in very small increments. You need to allow the door to close only an inch or so more, and you will need patience to make the strict adjustment. A full turn of the limit switch will make a three inch adjustment, and you won't need nearly that much.

Ask your helper to close the carport door and to eye the opening. Continue occasion and conclusion it while adjusting in tiny increments until you are satisfied that you have a snug fit, neither too tight nor too loose.

Always exert greatest caution when you are working with a carport door. It is a heavy piece of equipment that can cause a serious accident if it is not handled with care.

Adjusting Your stable Door To A Snug Seal

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

stable Door Opener - safety hand-operated lowest Line

Having a carport door opener has come to be so standard, that I rarely see a carport door without it. However, because it is a mechanical device, and if improperly installed, combined with a 400 pounds carport door (give or take some), it will hurt you badly! It might even kill you! There is a well known phrase - "if it works, don't touch it" (or fix it) - but maybe there should be also someone else one added to it "if it was properly installed"...

Most of us hate instructions but please stay with me till the end of this article - it might be useful for you, especially if your carport door opener has been installed by somebody else, it is old, or you aren't sure if what you did with it is de facto safe.

Door Bottom

There are many different types of carport door openers and this is not a enumerate of them.
This is about protection futures that Many citizen (homeowners / installers) neglect to setup properly.
The buyer goods protection Commission (Cpsc) requires that all carport door openers man-made or imported after January 1, 1993, for sale in the United States are qualified with an external entrapment protection system. It also recommends, that any carport door openers without a such protection time to come should replaced. External entrapment protection ideas refers to either:

An galvanic eye - two photoelectric sensors installed on both sides of the carport door track - they should never be installed higher than six inches from the carport floor (4"-6" is the recommended location). Such factory ensures that a small child cannot crawl under the sensor's indiscernible beam. When the light beam is broken while the door end process, the door should stop and reverse. If there's anything on the sensor light beam path or both sensors are out of alignment, you'll still be able to close the door by keeping the wall button - correct the problem instead of forcing the door to close. I've seen so many garages used as storage where it is impossible to see the lower section of the carport door from the area the push button has been installed, so you might not know what's blocking the light beam. Believe it or not but I often see two sensors taped together and secured above the carport door opener ... Or installed very high on both sides of the carport overhead doors opening. Remember - protection sensors must be installed within 6" from the carport floor level to preclude small children from crawling underneath the light beam - having them on the ceiling is just asking for a crisis to happen.

A door edge sensor - generally used on elevator doors, but also in some residential carport door openers - it's a strip installed along the lowest edge of the door. When it detects pressure applied by any obstruction, it should stop and reverse the door.

The carport door opener reverse on obstruction time to come must be set properly. In case this is the only protection time to come (no door edge sensor or photoelectric eye) - it becomes critical. It is also principal in situations where an galvanic eye has been improperly mounted (too high or in a different location - like on the pictures above). There should be a couple of adjustment screws on the body of the carport door opener assembly, commonly marked "down force" & "up force" or "open force" & "close force" (just like on the picture). Make sure, that you're adjusting the permissible set of screws, because many models of carport door openers will also have "up / down travel" adjustments - read the label. All the time ensue manufacturers instructions when doing adjustment, if the paperwork is gone, look it up online for that particular model. The normal rule is to place a 2"x4" block of wood underneath the door and try to close it. The carport door opener down / up force must be adjusted in such way, that when the door lowest edge touches the obstruction, it will immediately reverse. Some recommend using paper towels rolls instead of a wooden block, because it has a density similar to the human body, and especially small children. If you can get the carport door opener sensitivity adjustment that close, it would be perfect!

Up - Down travel is also very leading because overdoing it, often combined with an improperly adjusted Up - Down force, might damage the carport door opener and the door itself.

Down travel should be adjusted so when the door it is in a terminated position - the lowest weather strip is slightly compressed (not crushed completely).

Up travel - when the door is fully open, the carport door opener arm bracket should never hit the opener itself or a protective bracket / screw - at the most, it should stop right before it, without de facto hitting it.

The carport door opener is not a crane - it's a gismo that replaces your own hand in occasion / end process. What this means is that before the opener arm is physically linked to the door, you should make sure that the door spring tension has been properly adjusted and the door is equally balanced. If you want to test the door already qualified with an opener, disconnect the opener arm only when the door is fully terminated - be careful, because some door spring tension may be too high and it could pull the door up as soon as the opener has been disconnected.

When springs are properly adjusted, you should be able to de facto raise / lower and stop the carport door at any height, and it should remain at this level without any aid - stay clear of the door path and don't place your fingers between the door sections when performing any tests. If the door is out of balance - doesn't act like described above - call the expert to adjust it - this is a very dangerous procedure if you don't know what you're doing!

Three more things:

Garage door opener should be plugged directly into the electrical outlet, not an postponement cord, not a light fixture socket, preferably not a Gfci protected outlet. Any time you setup the carport door opener, make sure that the upper door panel or door section (with particular panel doors) has been reinforced - this applies to particular and duplicate carport doors. Reinforcement bar doesn't commonly come with the door, it is an additional piece of metal you have to pay for. For a particular door, without the galvanic opener, it isn't de facto necessary. For a duplicate door, I'd highly recommended one bar along the top, at least one more along the lowest edge, for heavy doors the third one might be necessary, and installed with or without the opener. Wide doors without the reinforcing bar start sagging after a while, and will most likely crack in the town of the top panel, right above the carport door opener arm attachment area. carport door opener push button - recommended factory is at about 60" to preclude small children from playing with it, and in a location where you can see the overhead door when closing.
Now the essence:

On terminated doors, determined disconnect the opener arm (some older models might not have a disconnect option) and test if properly balanced - if not call a expert to adjust it If operating properly without the opener, reconnect the arm and test it with a block of wood or great with a towel roll - adjust if it doesn't reverse (if you open and close the carport door opener too many times while adjusting sensitivity it will overheat and stop responding until its motor cools down). If your opener is malfunctioning or has improperly installed protection futures - correct it, it's dangerous! If your opener has no currently required protection futures - please replace it, it's dangerous!

stable Door Opener - safety hand-operated lowest Line

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